Paris Fashion Week Men’s is always the fitting finale to fashion month. Boasting runway presentations from the likes of Dior, Louis Vuitton and nowadays, a co-ed show from Jacquemus, the final stop on the circuit also attracts the biggest celebrities from around the globe. Amid a flurry of glitz, glamour and avant garde street style, Bella Hadid, Robert Pattinson and David Beckham among others were seen trotting down the cobblestone streets of the French cosmopolitan.
Whilst fashion goers fought the bitter cold, inside designers looked to the next winter season and on the trending radar is crisp suiting, heritage codes and a breakdown of fashion norms.
Kim Jones can simply do no wrong. Following a whimsical and romantic Spring/Summer 2020, the designer backed up the popular collection with a slightly darker approach. Playing hero to crisp suiting and lush pairings of fabrics, Fall/Winter 2020 draws on the Dior archives and iconography to celebrate the house’s timeless elegance. Paying homage to Christian Dior’s love of architecture, clothes, shoes and accessories boasted engineer zips to highlight strong cuts while clear construction was a continuing motif. House codes including the use of silk and paisley patterns added a softness to the broad silhouettes.
For Fall/Winter 2020, artistic director of Louis Vuitton Men’s, Virgil Abloh, titled the collection ‘Heaven on Earth’ and boy was it heaven. Set amidst an almost childlike backdrop, the French fashion house looked to breakdown traditional dress codes for a rework of wearable streetwear – a departure from his fluro, OTT silhouettes of past seasons. In turn, the forthcoming line was more pared back and highlighted slick tailoring with the touches of prints, colour and embellishments for a nod to craft and creativity. And unlike Abloh, sneakers took a step back to hero timeless leather footwear.
While Dior and Louis Vuitton looked to wearable style cues, creative director of Loewe, Jonathan Anderson immortalised the notion of motion and tensions with a pairing of textures and forms. Through juxtapositions of opacity and shine, curves and perpendicularity, satin and double faced wool, crystals and knit, double-breasted and prom dress, kinetic motifs and plainness, function is reduced, or twisted; definitions are blurred. A blazer is meant as outerwear, army shorts resemble a skirt, sleeves are elongated, a cape is morphed into a coat.
Winter, but make it resortwear.
If anyone would turn the notion of cold weather dressing on its head, it’d have have to be French, namesake house Jacquemus. Not straying away from the sartorial revival of the classic suit, Simon Porte Jacquemus applies a casual, beachside twist with oversized silhouettes, lightweight fabrics and soft, tonal hues of colour – a nod to French romanticism. The looks were finished of with what will be cult leather accessories, including the ever-chic branded water bottle holder. Where do we sign up?