Since Daniel Lee took the reigns at Burberry, the English designer has been hard at work weaving together threads of the brand’s history and heritage to define how the future of storied brand should look. It’s resulted in a rather poignant milieu of Britishness, past and present.
This was equally apparent in the guest list of names that lined the front row of the show: an assemblage of British icons (Naomi Campbell) and pop stars (Kylie Minogue) and figures called forth from its Cool Britannia period (Damon Albarn) alongside the new generation, Lennon Gallagher (scion of Oasis lead singer Liam Gallagher).
Overnight, in a tent hitched at Highbury Fields in Islington, Lee confirmed that not only was he the right choice to steer Burberry back into the global fashion playing field but also that he clearly understood the importance of retaining the brand’s legacy as he interprets it for a new audience.
Always and forever, the trench has been the cornerstone of Burberry and it was something that Lee has been eager to translate across his collections: it’s functional directness, it’s crisp yet comfortable silhouette and it’s innate Britishness. The trench is celebrated for its utilitarian versatility. A decorative statement, an outer layer, an inspiration for belted details.
While his debut winter show went heavy on the tartan and English rose motif, Spring 2024 offered yet another collection of signifiers deftly applied to clothes designed for the pace of the city but spoke to the gentle English countryside. What at first looked to be a simple chain graphic applied to shirting and coats on closer inspection reveals a details of metal carabiner clips that take the form of the knight’s horse and heavy-duty silver chains.
It’s the most cohesive in terms of vision and brand identity that Burberry has been in a long time, confirming Lee as the natural heir to Christopher Bailey and his golden touch.