There are few Australian designers who can adequately, let alone adeptly, translate local style on a global level and manage to capture the mood of the fashion world as a whole at the same time. Namesake designer Dion Lee is one of these – as evident in the Spring/Summer 2020 runway presentation during New York Fashion Week yesterday.

The Lower East Side’s New Design High School could not have been a more appropriate venue for the show. The runway was, in essence, a lesson on tonal dressing and modern luxury. Ultra-thin tank tops were paired with baggier utilitarian cargo pants while harnesses worn under sheer high-neck skivvies provided a bridge between the leather accents in belts, bags and sandals. In juxtaposition, bandana-prints featured in bold tangerine featured in tank tops and harem pants.

For the designer, inspiration was pulled from his muse, women, but perhaps for the first time his forthcoming collection incorporated men for a unisex approach. While he has touched on masculine pieces and silhouettes in the past, Spring/Summer 2020 was more deliberate in its delivery and according to Lee was a learning curve. Speaking to WWD he explained, “it very much came from me finding that a lot of women around me are dressing in men’s clothes and I think men are more comfortable experimenting with feminine silhouettes.”

Despite a sombre mood in New York City, on the 18th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks, the collection mix effortless summer dressing with darker undertones and references, the result of which was a collection which arms the wearer for whatever 2020 may bring – with style.

In addition to ready-to-wear, Dion Lee Bags also made a debut on the runway. Available to buy immediately following the runway, the bags are another extension for the label, which also offers underwear and swim for women, as well as a range of designer chairs in collaboration with DesignByThem which were shown at Milan Design Week earlier this year.

Consider your summer uniform sorted.

Dion Lee Bags are available to buy now via dionlee.com.

Words: Jake Halpin