News
On the second day of Milan Fashion Week, Fendi took centre stage with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut collection as Chief Creative Officer. Chiuri, who spent nine years leading Christian Dior, returns to the Italian house where she began her career in 1989 at just 24. Her appointment, announced last October, six months after her departure from Dior, is significant. Female leadership at legacy fashion houses remains rare, making her return not only a personal milestone but an industry singularity, and a full-circle moment.
Chiuri worked at Fendi for a decade before leaving for Valentino in 1999, contributing to some of the brand’s most iconic pieces, including the Baguette bag, which became a pop-culture staple. Her deep connection to the house and its founding sisters informs her approach, speaking openly about how she feels a responsibility to honour their legacy while guiding Fendi into the current moment.
The debut collection focused on accessible, well-crafted classics, largely in black. In a departure from gendered labels, Chiuri envisioned a shared wardrobe: the same coats, jackets, and trousers adapted in size, rather than split into “his” and “hers.” “Less I, More Us,” was her guiding principle for this collection, etched into the runway itself. A philosophy of collaboration and cohesion reflected in every silhouette, shoe, and accessory.
Beyond being a statement of inclusivity, the collection also signalled Chiuri’s vision for Fendi’s ready-to-wear future: clothes that are desirable, wearable, and grounded in the house’s craftsmanship. Accessories, tailoring, and details were all crafted to feel both familiar and fresh, demonstrating how the brand can maintain its iconic identity while evolving under new leadership.
In sum, Chiuri’s Fendi’s debut was a quiet declaration of intent: co-ed, thoughtful, and confident, a collection that balances heritage with modernity and places well-crafted classics at the forefront of a new era.
