Every season, Maison Margiela takes the form of a lucky dip – whereas the direction of its next line remains a mystery. Known for its inventive designs and deconstructive aesthetic, creative director of the Parisian label John Galliano is reinventing the house as it moves away from a glamour-fuelled showcase. Contrastingly, Fall/Winter 2019 saw a calm and brooding runway, as the running theme of genderless silhouettes continued at Paris Fashion Week.
Unlike the ‘Artisanal’ Spring/Summer 2019, a runway which saw an influx of psychedelic colour and discotheque design cues, Fall/Winter was far more minimalistic in its approach set along a clinical-feel runway. Entitled as a “co-ed” collection, it once again opened with trans teenager Finn Buchanan. Sporting a knee-length relaxed coat and black Mary-Janes, the direction for the new-season collection became slightly clearer.
With both men and women storming the runway, Maison Margiela began with a showcase of everything from beautifully tailored outerwear to more complex, avant garde silhouettes quintessential with the deconstructive design cues of the brand. Modern iterations of the classic trench coat was another strong theme throughout the runway, as was contrast stitching, romantic embellishments and billowing puffer jackets.
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Grey overdyed cotton polyester trench coat with overdyed lining, its bottom cut into the memory of shorts with décortiqué hems, worn with flamingo sequence print nylon fitted trousers. A black faux leather and flamingo sequence print neoprene collar and flamingo print patent leather round-toe heeled boots and NDN pochette. Look 29 from AW2019 « Défilé Co-ed » Collection designed by @jgalliano #MaisonMargiela
A Maison Margiela show is not however a true representation of the brand without some sort of inclusion of expressive prints and colour. Breaking up much of the monochromatic runway, the middle handful of looks presented dystopic, skin-tight prints and accompanying hardware – with the looks paired with wet-look hair and stripped back makeup. It was a refreshing placement in the runway all while in keeping with the theme of tailoring.
Embracing the social concept of non-binary gender, John Galliano has surely captured the attention of Gen-Z youth as he switches up the style game.
Watch the runway below.