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The Milan Spring/Summer 2026 menswear shows left us with a soft, lingering nostalgia. Not for a specific era or trend, but for a feeling. A sense of calm. Of clarity. Of slowing down. There was a shared mood across many of the standout collections: travel, escape, freedom, and quiet luxury. Less noise, more meaning. In a world that seems to be continuously teetering on the brink of chaos, and often tumbling over it, we are reminded to breathe.
Emporio Armani took us somewhere else entirely, pulling from North African references, earthy textures, and sun-faded tones that felt both grounded and elevated. Prada stripped things back to emotion with elemental shapes and poetic hues that evoked land, sky, and water. Even Dolce & Gabbana gave in to softness, turning cotton pyjamas into statement pieces. It wasn’t about sleepwear. It was about ease, confidence, and freedom.
Tod’s, Brunello Cucinelli and Canali all leaned into the art of relaxed elegance with soft leathers, linen blends, and vibes that felt like summer in the countryside. Saul Nash offered something more intimate and physical with pieces that moved with the body, hinted at connection, and played with the tension between structure and softness. Vivienne Westwood, under Andreas Kronthaler, brought a playful edge of punk back to Milan with a gender-fluid, character-rich outing that fused satire with softness. It was cheeky, provocative, and proudly unbothered by boundaries.
Even with a handful of big names missing (Gucci, Fendi, Zegna), the season felt like a deep breath. Dressing not to impress, but to feel good. Not about trends, but about tuning in. Less chaos, more calm.
