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Anthony Vaccarello knows a thing or two about contrasts, and for Saint Laurent’s Winter 2025 menswear collection, he leans into that push-pull of opposites with effortless precision. Sleek tailoring meets unexpected fluidity, classicism flirts with subversion, and the ghost of Yves Saint Laurent himself lingers in the sharp-shouldered silhouettes. Inspired by the seductive, moody lens of Robert Mapplethorpe, the collection exudes a dark allure—think feather-trimmed coats and razor-sharp double-breasted jackets, given a rebellious edge with thigh-high leather boots. Even the setting plays into this tension, as the modernist cool of the Bourse de Commerce collides with ornate parquet floors and towering crystal chandeliers, a sly nod to the gilded salons where Saint Laurent once ruled. It’s a masterclass in contradiction—bold yet restrained, structured yet untamed, a vision of menswear that’s as poetic as it is powerful.
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