Thom Browne has always dabbled in the obscure. While the New-York based designer has in the past reinvented classic sartorial style, the brand known for its clean-cut aesthetic and heritage style has alway remained. But as the eponymous label dances between monochromatic collections and avant-garde appropriations – Spring/Summer 2019 was an example of that – the name of Thom Browne was taken one step further for SS/20.
As if it was plucked straight from the renaissance, the fusion of collegiate sport and classical ballet collided under the glass roof of École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. While guests fanned themselves under the hot conditions of a Parisian summer, the show opened with a breath of fresh air as American Ballet Theatre principal dancer, James Whiteside glided across the runway.
Amongst an array of jetés and pirouettes, models stood down the middle of the runway while 2D garments were removed to unveil a series of new-season looks. The first styles on offer were a line of American football silhouettes, albeit with a Thom Browne touch. Short-shorts and pleated skirts were paired with slim-fit blazers, all in a range of striped fabrics, while the looks were tied to the sport with accompanying helmets and balls. The collection continued with longer-style shorts – an ode to basketball – before transforming into soccer and baseball iterations.
But the renewed renaissance of Thom Browne was presented with a extensive line of 3D silhouettes. A sense of era-style aristocracy shone through with billowing skirts and jackets while tapered trousers and key staple accessories – such as the three-stipe belt – added a touch of wearability.
Amongst the sea of pastel and signature red-blue striping, frayed edges and floral appliqué allowed for texture and depth. Ivy league sport was once again represented through inspired accessories, while the heritage feel to the collection was finished off with pointed derby shoes.
And if Paris Fashion Week Men’s was anything to go by, in the case of Thom Browne it is now safe to expect the unexpected.
View the runway below.