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Green, blue, burgundy, salmon, pink and even a flash of royal purple–colour, and lots of it, was the main attraction at the most recent Watches and Wonders 2024 at Geneva’s Palexpo.
The trade show, that brings 54 brands and exhibitors (the majority of the Swiss industry if we’re talking stats) under one roof, offered first look at the biggest trends to arrive in the watchmaking scene – slower, perhaps than fashion’s fast paced moves but more seismic when it does happen. This year, it looks like the tides of quiet luxury are turning in favour for stand-out pieces that are designed to catch the eye. It was a year for bold, big and bright.
Among the most prominent trends was the continued popularity of blue and green dials. On the one hand, Cartier’s Santos de Cartier embraced a forest-green hue (among others), Vacheron Constantin adorned their Overseas Dual Time model with an olive dial while Tudor gave us something we didn’t even know we needed, an 18ct Gold Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight with green dial and matching bezel.
When it came to blue, it was lighter, softer hues inspired by summers skies or, dare we say, the sweet baby blue. Top picks from this sector were the new Rolex Perpetual 1908 and IWC’s Portugieser Chronograph ‘Horizon Blue’ and the “icy” blue of Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire.
The revival of a classic, Piaget’s Polo 79, heralded the revival of another classic design aesthetic: yellow gold. Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Deepsea combined 18ct gold with a distinctive blue lacquer dial, joined by the aforementioned Tudor and Vacheron Constantin. A rosier outlook was spotted at Patek Philippe with their Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R that had the sleek sensuality of 70s glamour.
Watches and Wonders 2024 reinforced the industry’s ability to evolve while maintaining a connection to timeless designs. From the fusion of old and new styles to exciting advancements in materials and technology, this year’s exhibition proved that the world of horology is more dynamic than ever.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R
Patek Philippe is stirring nostalgia with its latest offering, the rose-gold Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001, a sleek homage to 70s luxe with a modern twist. Flaunting a slim 34.5 x 39.5 mm silhouette and an ultra-thin self-winding movement encased in a curvaceous 5.9mm body, this watch captures the essence of minimal-luxe charm. Inspired by the Golden Ratio, its standout feature is the intricately braided pink-gold bracelet, a true craftsmanship marvel with 363 elements including more than 300 hand-mounted links.
Rolex Deepsea
An eye-catching first for their range of deep-sea divers’ watches, Rolex marries opulence with cutting-edge technology. Sporting a blue ceramic compression ring and elements in RLX titanium, this watch is not just a timekeeper but a testament to the brand’s mastery of materials and colour. The Deepsea’s striking look is amplified by its Cerachrom ring with a circular satin finish, integrated seamlessly into the Ringlock system, allowing it to endure the extreme pressures found 3,900 metres below sea level.
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir
Cartier’s Tortue, a design harking back to 1912, stands out for its distinctive tonneau shape, making it one of the oldest in Cartier’s storied watch lineage, just behind the Santos-Dumont. Its design—a harmonious blend of curved and straight lines, presented in luxurious gold or platinum with a striking burgundy strap—retains a modern appeal that transcends time. Adding a dash of excitement to this classic series is the Tortue monopusher chronograph, known in French as ‘monopoussoir’, a compelling contemporary twist on the original.
Special mention does go to the new trio of lacquered Santos-Dumont models that brought the colour to Watches and Wonders, featuring two non-limited editions and a limited edition with a green, platinum case. All three models switch from Roman to Arabic numerals but maintain the same case size as their predecessors. They feature the ultra-thin 430 MC movement, which is manually wound and offers a 38-hour power reserve, based on the Piaget 430P.
Tudor Black Bay 58 in solid yellow gold
In a striking move, Tudor unveils its first-ever solid gold bracelet, elevating the luxe factor of the Black Bay 58 18K. This launch follows the 2021 debut of its gold-cased sibling, now completed with a matching bracelet—a natural yet unexpected extension for the brand typically seen as a more accessible cousin to Rolex. Sporting a matte and satin finish, this piece retains the classic 39mm size and features a transparent caseback. Inside ticks the robust, COSC-certified Tudor MT5400 movement, promising a 70-hour power reserve. This bold venture into full gold craftsmanship marks a significant upscale turn for Tudor.
HUBLOT Big Bang Integrated Time Only
Hublot, known for its bold muscularity, has embraced minimalism at this year’s Watches and wonders and elegance with its latest update to the iconic Integrated Time Only series. This year, the collection welcomes six new timepieces, all housed in a sleek 38mm case—smaller than their predecessors. Among the new offerings, two are crafted from the exclusive king gold material, adding a touch of opulence. Another pair features polished titanium casings with a choice of black or blue dials, showcasing a crisp, modern aesthetic. The final two pieces embrace Hublot’s renowned ceramic craftsmanship, available in either black or blue. This edition of the Big Bang series sports smaller cases and adopts a more subdued palette and material use, resulting in a line-up of ultra-sophisticated contemporary classics that are as understated as they are stunning.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
Vacheron Constantin revitalises its Overseas collection with intense green dials on four pink gold models, introducing a fresh aesthetic to its sporty-chic lineup. The selection includes 35 mm gemset, 41 mm date, 42.5 mm chronograph, and 41 mm dual time models, each water-resistant to 150 metres and featuring an 18K pink gold oscillating weight. These watches offer versatility with interchangeable pink gold, green calfskin, and our favourite, green rubber straps. The new green dials, detailed with sunburst satin and velvet finishes, enhance legibility with luminous gold markers, marrying luxury with adventure-ready functionality.
IWC Portugieser Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
IWC Schaffhausen rolled out a striking new iteration of its iconic Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. This edition dazzles with an 18-carat white gold casing and a Horizon Blue dial that captivates the eye, layered with 15 levels of transparent lacquer and polished to a mirror-like finish. Not just a feast for the eyes, the watch is crafted with a slimmer case enhanced by double box-glass sapphire crystals, lending it a graceful, airy feel. Underneath this exquisite exterior lies the robust IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre, complete with a Pellaton winding system that maintains a hefty 7-day power reserve.
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton
TAG Heuer reinvents its iconic Monaco with a skeletonised dial, revealing the calibre Heuer 02 within. The black DLC-coated titanium case adds a stealthy and high-performance aesthetic, combining a futuristic twist with a classic racing heritage.
Chanel J12 Automaton Caliber 6
The J12 collection from Chanel gets an elegant update with the launch of the Couture O’Clock capsule collection, influenced by the skilled tailors at Coco Chanel’s Parisian atelier on Rue Cambon.
Encased in ceramic and framed by 48 baguette-cut diamonds around the bezel, the watch features a unique automaton on its face. Upon pressing a button, a figure of Mademoiselle Chanel springs into action, using scissors in a workshop that’s decorated with iconic Chanel elements like tweed and camellias.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronograph Moon
Jaeger-LeCoultre has revitalised the Duometre collection, presenting the standout Duomètre Chronograph Moon. A fusion of chronographic precision and celestial aesthetics, this watch is powered by the new Calibre 391, which features a dual-wing mechanism to ensure uncompromised timekeeping. Available in a luxurious platinum case with a copper dial or in elegant rose gold with a silver dial, each model boasts an alligator strap, reflecting the brand’s commitment to combining sophisticated design with advanced functionality.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
Bvlgari has once again pushed the boundaries of haute horlogerie with its latest marvel, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, now crowned as the thinnest COSC-certified mechanical watch ever at an almost imperceptible 1.70mm. In a daring blend of innovation and opulence, this edition is crafted in challenging platinum, bringing a new level of refinement to the ultra-thin watchmaking arena. The 2024 Watches and Wonders saw Bvlgari and Piaget vying for the title of slimmest mechanical watch, with Piaget presenting its thinnest tourbillon yet. However, Bvlgari stole the show with the Ultra, a watch so slender it nearly vanishes when viewed from the side, merging impeccable timing with ethereal design.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
A year on from the playful emoji-adorned Day-Date at Watches and Wonders, Rolex returned to its classic roots with subtler launches this year—bar the showy yellow gold Deepsea. While enthusiasts may have anticipated a new “Batman” GMT-Master II, Rolex introduced a refined black-and-grey “Bruce Wayne” version instead. However, the highlight was the latest addition to the Perpetual 1908 collection. Launched in 2023 to succeed the Cellini, the new 1908 model features a platinum case, an ice-blue dial with a rice-grain guilloché pattern, and is available with either a black or brown alligator strap, epitomizing simple elegance.
