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TWILL TIPPING SPORT COAT, SHOP SIMILAR, CLASSIC OXFORD BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT, SHOP NOW, TWILL BOW TIE, SHOP SIMILAR, THOM BROWNE
The New New
Photography: Vladimir Marti
Fashion Direction: Qwan Anthony
Fashion Stylist: Imogene Legrand
Grooming: Kavya Raj Powell
Lighting Assistant: Macky Navarro
Styling Assistant: Janhvi Kohli
Words: Thom Bettridge
Model: Taj Pillott / ANT Management
Menswear in 2023 got off to a chaotic start. The creative director carousel turned into a thrill ride. Viral runway moments became an object for clout chasing and then, of scorn. We pronounced streetwear dead, but Succession had yet to tell us that quiet luxury would be the next era-defining fashion meme. It felt like a chapter had ended, but the next one hadn’t started yet. Lucky for us, there’s always next season. June’s SS24 menswear collections felt like a sounding shot for a new era. Yes, Pharrell’s installation as luxury’s next god-emperor provided the defining moment of the festivities. But the topic being discussed in the showrooms, on the harried metro rides, in the front rows of more lo-fi runways was how clothes were becoming clothes again—and how the quiet luxury playbook is much more interesting than Kendall Roy wearing a Loro Piana baseball cap.
If the height of the Virgil-Kanye-Demna-ocity was menswear’s arena rock moment, then the best of last month’s collections were the MTV Unplugged acoustic set. Texture, charisma, and a renewed desire to look elegant ruled the day. It was a “you had to be there” season, an “I liked the book better than the movie” season, or, to put it succinctly, an IYKYK season. And all of that is very different from being low-key (quiet) or rich (luxury), because neither of those traits are cool in a meaningful way. Behold, some new styles for sharp dudes everywhere.
“THE NEW NEW” IS FEATURED IN THE 12TH EDITION OF ICON PRINT MAGAZINE. ORDER YOUR COPY HERE.
TWILL TIPPING SPORT COAT, SHOP SIMILAR, CLASSIC OXFORD BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT, SHOP NOW, TWILL BOW TIE, SHOP NOW, TWILL TIPPING WIDE LEG UTILITY TROUSERS, SHOP SIMILAR, THOM BROWNE. LUG SOLE MOCCASINS IN LEATHER WITH SILVER FINISHING HORSEBIT, GUCCI, SHOP SIMILAR
PEBBLE GRAIN SMALL DUFFLE, THOM BROWNE, SHOP NOW
LONG SLEEVED LEATHER INTARSIA RUGBY POLO, SHOP NOW, LEATHER INTARSIA DAMIER RUGBY SHORTS, SHOP NOW, LOUIS VUITTON. LEATHER LACE UP LOAFERS, DOLCE & GABBANA, SHOP SIMILAR
V-NECK CABLE KNIT SWEATER IN ORGANIC COTTON, LACOSTE, SHOP SIMILAR. COTTON SHIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, KILT, SHOP SIMILAR, DIOR MEN. COTTON-TERRY COLOUR BLOCKED SHORTS WITH CONTRAST PANELS, BOSS, SHOP NOW. SUEDE LOAFERS, DOLCE & GABBANA, SHOP NOW. SHADOW BAGUETTE SOFT TRUNK, FENDI, SHOP NOW
STRETCH FABRIC TENNIS TRACKSUIT, LACOSTE, SHOP SIMILAR. SHIZEN CREWNECK SWEATER IN SILK AND LINEN, LORO PIANA, SHOP SIMILAR. SHOES, MODEL’S OWN
B57 MID-TOP SNEAKERS, DIOR MEN, SHOP SIMILAR. SOCKS, STYLIST’S OWN
SHIRT, DOLCE & GABANNA, SHOP SIMILAR. SWEATSHIRT, CALVIN KLEIN, SHOP SIMILAR
SUMMER TOTE BAG IN ICONIC SUMMER BROWN PRINT, BERLUTI, SHOP NOW
SHIRT, DOLCE & GABANNA, SHOP SIMILAR. SWEATSHIRT, CALVIN KLEIN, SHOP SIMILAR. SUITING SHORTS, SACAI, SHOP NOW. B57 MID-TOP SNEAKER, DIOR MEN, SHOP SIMLAR. SOCKS, STYLIST’S OWN
DOUBLE-BREASTED SILK TAORMINA FIT JACKET, SHOP SIMILAR, FLORAL BROOCH IN POPLIN, SHOP NOW, DOLCE & GABBANA
FLOWER EMBROIDERED SHIRT, VALENTINO, SHOP SIMILAR. DENIM SHIRT WITH JACQUARD DETAIL, SHOP NOW, DENIM TROUSERS WITH JACQUARD DETAIL, SHOP NOW, GUCCI