Everything
Adventure in a bottle, Guerlain has introduced the latest member for its L’Art & La Matière fragrances, Néroli Plein Sud. Crafted by Delphine Jelk, the scent celebrates the essence of adventure and exploration, inspired by the legendary aviator and author Antoine de Saint Exupéry. Delphine Jelk, in her own words, aimed to “make you dream” with this fragrance, embarking on a quest for the perfect expression of neroli – the essential oil of orange flower.
Néroli Plein Sud is a testament to the emotional and multi-sensory experience of fragrance, drawing deeply on Jelk’s personal memories and experiences. She explains, “Neroli is very emotional…it is a flower, but very, very fresh. And it’s crispy. There is kind of a vitality in it.” Her creative process involves a unique approach to perfume making, where she aims to surprise and create contrast within the fragrance. This intention led her to Morocco, a place she frequently visits and holds dear, to source the neroli used in Néroli Plein Sud directly from the fields of Khemisset.
Jelk describes the harvesting process as organic and hands-on, where she worked alongside local women to collect the orange blossoms. This direct engagement with the raw material not only ensured its quality but also imbued the fragrance with the authentic essence of its origin. The perfume captures “the freshness of the smell coming from those fields, but in the sky where it’s fresh and going down to the south, to the desert and there the warmth of the Sahara.”
The composition of Néroli Plein Sud is deeply inspired by the contrast and harmony of colors and scents found in Morocco. Jelk mentions incorporating turmeric extract for its coherent colour and scent association with neroli, creating a vibrant yet warm fragrance that mirrors the landscape and culture of Morocco.
Jelk sees herself as reinterpreting Guerlain’s signature style, blending traditional elements with modern sensibilities. She emphasizes the importance of creating perfumes that are enveloping and create an aura, stating, “A Guerlain perfume has a big trail. It creates an aura around you.” Néroli Plein Sud embodies this philosophy, offering a fresh yet sensual experience that lasts and evolves on the skin.
Jelk’s approach to creating Néroli Plein Sud reflects a deep appreciation for the art of perfumery, the richness of raw materials, and the stories that inspire them. This fragrance not only continues the legacy of Guerlain but also invites wearers on a journey of discovery, led by the enchanting scent of Moroccan neroli.
Expanding on her creative process, Jelk shared insights into the profound research and personal connection that informs her work. She meticulously documents her experiences and inspirations in a travel diary, an approach that enriches each fragrance with a narrative depth. “It’s very important for me to express the story I had in mind when I created all those fragrances that I made. I love to express in a very visual way,” she explained. This diary, filled with notes, sketches, and colors, becomes a tangible record of her journey, translating complex emotions and landscapes into the language of scent.
Jelk’s passion for her craft is evident as she speaks about the importance of authenticity and emotion in perfumery. “I don’t want to do a perfume just because we have to launch something. I hate that really. So really for me, the creation of perfume is very authentic. It has to come from something very emotional,” she stated. This authenticity is a hallmark of her work, ensuring that each fragrance not only adds to Guerlain’s illustrious history but also contributes meaningfully to the broader world of perfumery.
Her dedication to capturing the essence of neroli and its surroundings led her to a deep exploration of the ingredient’s origins and qualities. “It’s really amazing. That’s why I love to do my studies of perfumery in Grasse in the south of France because I had this chance to see the ingredients in the field,” Jelk shared, highlighting the importance of firsthand experience with raw materials in the creation of authentic and compelling fragrances.
Jelk’s work on Néroli Plein Sud is a testament to her commitment to innovation within the framework of Guerlain’s storied tradition. She skilfully navigates the balance between honouring the brand’s heritage and pushing the boundaries of modern perfumery. By weaving together the threads of history, personal experience, and a deep love for the art of fragrance, Delphine Jelk has created a scent that invites wearers to embark on their own voyage of discovery, guided by the luminous trail of Néroli Plein Sud.
