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In a nod to musical history and timeless style, Hedi Slimane’s latest collection for Celine Winter 2024 takes inspiration from Hector Berlioz’s groundbreaking 1830 composition, “Symphonie Fantastique”. Renowned conductor Leonard Bernstein famously described it in 1969 as the world’s first psychedelic symphony—a vivid auditory journey that predated the psychedelic era by more than a century.
Never let it be said that Slimane lacks Vision with a capital V. The creative director for Celine has built a career around creating a visual language through fashion that has cemented him as one of the great, sometimes controversial, designers of out time. It’s his ability to weave the vocabularies of other creative avenues, most commonly music, but also art and photography, that gives his collections such scope even as they adhere to a strict, instantly recognisable Slimane aesthetic.
Berlioz’s “Symphonie Fantastique” offers a narrative of the composer’s own tumultuous love life. At just 26, Berlioz poured his unrequited affection for English actress Harriet Smithson into his work, creating a symphony that was both revolutionary and intensely personal. Its composition is a blend of raw emotion and innovative orchestration, bewildered contemporary critics with its modernity.
Slimane, who apparently first encountered this powerful symphony at the age of 11, translates this drama and flair into his latest collection. The “Symphonie Fantastique” line marks a revival of tailoring, showcasing Slimane’s dedication to craftsmanship. With silhouettes defined by the sleek “I” line, the collection echoes the structured elegance of 1960s tailoring, imbued with 19th-century British influences.
This collection features a luxurious array of frock coats, three-button suits, and hand-embroidered waistcoats, all meticulously crafted from premium fabrics like silk, cashmere, and vicuña. The palette is dominated by rich, matte blacks, satins, and lacquered textures, exuding opulence and sophistication.
An intriguing cultural parallel within the collection is its homage to the legendary Troubadour Club in West Hollywood. Since 1957, this iconic venue has been a launching pad for musical legends including Joni Mitchell, Neil Young, and Elton John, who had his American breakthrough there in 1970. Founder Doug Weston described the performers as “modern-day troubadours,” a term originally used for the poets and musicians of medieval France.
The feline sensuality that has marked Slimane’s tenure at the French house finds new footing in a softer, more romantic edge in the Winter ’24 collection. Gone are some of the deconstructed elements, replaced with sharper (if that’s even possible) tailoring and a more elevated, elegant take on his familiar rock’n’roll leathers.
Slimane’s “Symphonie Fantastique” collection, much like the symphony that inspired it, melds historical depth with modern innovation. It stands as a tribute to the creative spirit that bridges eras, celebrating the enduring influence of both Berlioz’s visionary music and the timeless allure of meticulously crafted fashion.
