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Milan Fashion Week marked a new era for a number of fashion houses with first chapters and fresh arrivals. Louise Trotter took her bow at Bottega Veneta, Maximilian Davis pushed Ferragamo into new territory with a 1920s wink, and Prada tilted the dial toward flexible dressing, which made Simone Bellotti’s debut at Jil Sander read as part of a bigger change.
The German label effectively kept its message close to home. The show returned to the brand’s headquarters, a former cinema reworked into a three-storey space by the Castello. The room was painted in white with a single black arc mapping the runway while Bochum Welt’s electronic score in the background added to the atmosphere. The coed format showcased womenswear and menswear with the same tenets.
Jackets buttoned high, streamlined to the body, with raw hems and precise folds interrupting the lines. Dresses and skirts featured clustered strips of georgette that flickered like pages of a book.
Colour and texture pushed the idea further with the shades moving from sober neutrals into dusty pastels with an occasional bright blue in the mix.
The house also stated that the idea of “armour” inspired the choice of materials. Mirrored leather, metallic sequins and precious silks were folded to shield the bust and hips, hinting at the idea of protection. Accessories followed the same rules with square-toed lace-ups, cut-out ballerinas, kitten-heeled brogues, pared-back sandals and bags, including a new Pivot style.
In a week all about first steps and new directions, Simone’s Jil Sander fits in perfectly and is one to be excited for.
