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Bvlgari’s Serpenti has taken many forms, and most have been geared towards a feminine audience. Its latest iteration, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is decidedly “genderless”, but that’s not the only breakaway from tradition observed in Bvlgari’s latest collaboration with masters of watch craftsmanship MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends).
MB&F are known for their structurally complex watches–each piece is something unexpected and never before seen in the world of haute horology. Bvlgari and MB&F have a friendly history, with a chance meeting between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, spurring a previous collaboration in 2021–the FlyingT Allegra.
While their previous Allegra creation was a mechanical sculpture saturated with Bvlgari’s multi-coloured gemstones, this time around, Bvlgari borrows MB&F’s artistic expertise to birth a new entrant in the Serpenti lexicon, ushering in the Year of the Snake.
Serpenti needed to be completely reimagined for this metamorphosis. Beginning with the watch’s casing, the whole process posed a series of challenges for both Maisons. While a round case is seen in most watches, it’s flat and lacks dimension. Dimension, however, is present in spades in the case designed for the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti. Each new angle the watch is viewed from creates a completely different image.
“The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters,” shares Büsser about the engineering of the case, which was described as a “machining nightmare”.
The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti was created with the aim of bringing the famous reptile to life. This goal is achieved by the hour and minute dials on either side of the watch’s ‘head’. The whirring dials evoke the calculating gaze of a snake lying in wait. The visual complexity of the timepiece is equalled in its inner workings. The ‘brain’ consists of a 14mm flying balance wheel held in place by a three dimensional balance bridge that proudly states the names of its co-creators. Winding and time-setting are delegated to two separate crowns in the rear lugs of the watch.
“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce,” explains Stigliani. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”
There are three versions of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti. The first of its three forms encloses blue eyes in a titanium casing, while a second version uses black PVD-coated stainless steel to frame its red gaze. The third, fashioned from 18 Karat rose gold, surveys with a green stare from its wearer’s wrist.
It’s a piece any collector would pine over, and MB&F’s artisanal manufacturing procedure ensures that only 99 pieces will be crafted. With 33 pieces being produced of each of the three incarnations of the serpent, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is a rarity even in the limited edition scene.
