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ICON have curated the crème de la crème from Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025: where creativity and luxury collide. This season, we witnessed the best of the best, from Bally’s playful homage to artistic heritage to Bottega Veneta’s dreamlike silhouettes. Armani reminded us of timeless elegance with a contemporary flair, while Ferragamo and Jil Sander explored the delicate balance between grit and sophistication. With vibrant expressions of joy from Versace and the effortless luxury of Tod’s, this edit celebrates the trends and talents redefining men’s fashion.
BALLY
Bally’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Counterpoint 3” by Simone Bellotti, serves up a bold tribute to the avant-garde origins of the Dada movement, with a playful spin on Bally’s heritage. Electric blues, striking emeralds and occasional flashes of silver break through a base canvas of muted browns, greys and whites. The collection is a collision of eras and personas – bringing an unexpected vibrancy to classic luxury.
BOSS
BOSS’s Spring/Summer 2025 “Out of Office” collection is all about mastering the 24/7 lifestyle with effortless style. Reinventing the traditional 9 to 5, this collection blurs the lines between work and play, offering looks that glide from boardroom to dinner table. With three-button suits, raised trouser hems, and a mix of wool, satin, and leather, it’s all about relaxed sophistication. Yoga mats and tennis racket bags bring a playful, sporty twist, while fluid silhouettes and draped designs add a sense of ease for those who knows how to balance business with downtime.
“For Spring/Summer 2025 we’ve reinvented suiting with a softer approach, where the silhouette is dictated by the wearer’s body, leaving more room for freedom and expression of individuality.”
– Marco Falcioni, Senior Vice President Creative Direction, HUGO BOSS
BOTTEGA VENETA
Matthieu Blazy’s Spring 2025 Bottega Veneta show kicked off with a playful nod to nostalgia, as guests lounged on animal-shaped bean bag chairs instead of the usual seating. The collection itself was a masterclass in surreal luxury, with oversized tailoring in refined greys and reds taking centre stage. Blazy’s signature twist? Exaggerated suiting with unexpected cuts—like trousers that veered from knee-length to ankle-length in one piece. Fabrics blurred the line between perception and reality, with what appeared to be denim revealed as intricately woven merino wool. It’s a collection where dishevelled chaos turns effortlessly into sophistication.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Giorgio Armani’s vision for Emporio Armani SS25 is a harmonious blend of timeless and forward-thinking style, where the past meets the future with ease. The collection’s symbolic men’s suit and tie, worn by both genders, captures this duality—honouring what came before while signalling what’s next. Armani’s mastery lies in this balance, where subtle evolution keeps the core aesthetic intact. The tie, once a bold symbol of gender equality, reappears here as a playful and elegant nod to the present, proving that true style transcends eras and conventions.
FERRAGAMO
Ferragamo’s Spring 2025 show, helmed by Maximilian Davis, was an exercise in delicate minimalism and impeccable tailoring. Capelike pieces seemed to float effortlessly down the runway, while trench coats, cleverly crinkled, gave off an airy, weightless vibe. As always, Davis injected vibrant pops of colour with tonal blue and red ensembles that added a punchy contrast to the refined silhouettes. And then there were the handbags—Ferragamo’s iconic leather designs reimagined with feathers, laser-cut details, and oversized shapes, most carried as clutches along the sleek, cream runway.
JIL SANDER
Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, inspired by photographer Greg Girard, brought a brooding, urban edge to Milan. Luke and Lucie Meier channeled Girard’s haunting depictions of 20th-century cityscapes, weaving prints of cars, motels, and neon-soaked streets into their designs. Exaggerated silhouettes nodded to 1980s workwear, while airy slips and fringe details evoked the decadence of the 1920s. The gritty city vibe was further captured in the collection’s androgynous shapes, neon accents, and moody colour palette. The ‘Lonely Hearts’ sweater hinted at a deeper message—perhaps a quiet call for connection in today’s divided world?
TOD’S
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, crafted by Matteo Tamburini, captures the essence of Mediterranean travel, blending tradition with understated luxury and practicality. The runway was filled with sleek, geometric bags that added a polished touch to the collection. Every piece, from the relaxed silhouettes to the refined materials, exuded timeless elegance, designed for the man-on-the-go. With a focus on sophistication and function, Tamburini’s vision is the perfect companion for life’s everyday journeys.
VERSACE
Donatella Versace’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection bursts with unapologetic positivity and the essence of ‘Very Versace.’ Channeling spontaneity and freedom, this lineup makes joy a bold statement. Staying true to the brand’s vibrant DNA, it showcases an exuberant mix of clashing prints and dynamic patterns. Playful squiggly knits dance alongside floral designs, some elegantly draped on silk, while others adorn modern takes on the classic Versace chainmail. In an unexpected twist, the bold iconic Versace colour palette shifted to soft pastels, infusing a youthful spirit into the entire collection.
