Everything
Qasimi‘s return on the runway for their Spring/Summer 2025 collection marks a momentous occasion. Not only is it the label’s first show in four years, but it signifies a new era under Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi’s creative direction with a collection that honours the brand’s legacy while introducing her own artistic vision.
Held in a fittingly industrial setting in East London, the show unfolded as a material-focused exploration. Qasimi’s signature focus on quality shone through, with luxurious fabrics like silk and voile forming the base for the collection. However, this season offered a vibrant departure from the label’s usual earthy tones. Bold hues and bright natural colours took centre stage, reflecting a new direction under Hoor’s direction.
The President and Director of the Sharjah Art Foundation brought her keen eye for storytelling and art curation to this collection, as the artistic heart of the collection came through a captivating collaboration with New York-based artist Kambui Olujimi. His “When Monuments Fall” series, exploring the recontextualisation of monuments and their societal power, served as a potent source of inspiration for the collection. Olujimi’s paintings were translated onto garments using digital printing and fading techniques, adding a layer of artistic and political commentary to the pieces.
The collection itself embodied a beautiful interplay between heritage and forward movement. Flowing silhouettes in Qasimi’s signature earthy tones paid homage to the brand’s Arab roots. These looser pieces were juxtaposed with structured shirts and boxy tailoring, introducing a contemporary edge to the menswear staples. Layered utility-inspired uniforms further emphasised the collection’s exploration of form and function.
The colour palette also reflected the artistic dialogue. The show opened with soft white hues, transitioning into vibrant blues and subtle taupes. Pastel greys and blues were used on draped tops and loose-fitting pants, emphasising movement and fluidity. This play on light and shadow further alluded to the ever-changing nature of monuments, a central theme in Olujimi’s work. Hoor Al Qasimi has successfully built upon the foundation laid by her brother, introducing a fresh artistic voice and a vibrant new direction. The collection celebrates material, a powerful artistic collaboration, and a legacy beautifully redefined.
