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Stealing the show at the annual Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva is akin to shining a flashlight during the day time, but trust Franck Muller to yet again stand out in a crowd populated with incredible creations. During the most recent W&W, the Swiss watchmaker gave even the most staid watch aficionados reason to pause and gawk with the unveiling of an armada of new novelties from the Double Retrograde Hour Cintrée Curvex to the showstopping Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton. This latest release isn’t just a new addition to their collection; it exemplifies Franck Muller’s relentless pursuit of innovation while respecting the craftsmanship that defines its legacy.
Nicholas Rudaz, Franck Muller’s CEO, articulated the brand’s philosophy behind their latest creation. “Balancing and preserving the heritage with the pursuit of innovation is a critical challenge for Franck Muller,” Rudaz explains. “We maintain a deep respect for traditional watchmaking techniques and craftsmanship. By preserving these methods, the brand ensures that each watch retains the classic quality and precision that defines its heritage.”
The Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton builds on the Grand Central Tourbillon, which debuted in 2022, and it marks a significant departure from traditional watchmaking. This timepiece features a centrally positioned tourbillon—the first of its kind in a tonneau-shaped watch. “This is the first time a tourbillon is placed at the centre of a tonneau-shaped watch,” Rudaz notes. “Technically, making a curved watch has always been much more difficult, let alone with a tourbillon in the middle.”
This innovative design required a complete rethinking of the watch’s internal architecture. The skeletonised design, which exposes the intricate mechanics of the watch, is supported by four bridges creating a floating illusion. “The whole movement was totally redesigned to make it more aesthetic for enthusiasts to admire the complexity of the movement,” Rudaz adds. This architectural marvel not only showcases Franck Muller’s technical prowess but also underscores their commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.
In addition to the Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton, Franck Muller also introduced a limited-edition Long Island Evolution collection, which has been specifically crafted for the Asia-Pacific market. This collection was driven by the region’s growing appetite for luxury watches. “Franck Muller decided to create this collection due to the region’s significant and growing interest in luxury watches,” Rudaz explains. The Long Island Evolution includes models such as the 7 Day Power Reserve, Master Jumper, and Giga Tourbillon. Each model features innovative designs and complex mechanical movements, tailored to the tastes of the Asia-Pacific clientele.
The response to the Long Island Evolution collection has been overwhelmingly positive. “The response has been very positive, with notable excitement around the exclusive and limited nature of the collection,” says Rudaz. The collection’s use of materials like brushed titanium and green anodised aluminium, along with innovative technical features, has resonated well with the market. “The Master Jumper is a world premiere movement, and the public has given it a very warm welcome indeed.”
Franck Muller’s commitment to blending tradition with innovation extends to all its collections. “We place a strong emphasis on traditional watchmaking techniques. Skilled artisans meticulously handcraft each timepiece, ensuring the highest quality and attention to detail,” Rudaz explains. This dedication ensures that each new collection not only embodies technical excellence and aesthetic beauty but also aligns with the brand’s legacy of innovation and exclusivity.
Reflecting on Franck Muller’s legacy, it is evident that the brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of horological innovation while maintaining a deep respect for traditional watchmaking. Founded in Geneva in 1991 by Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes, the brand quickly established itself as a leader in haute horlogerie. The introduction of the Cintrée Curvex in 1992 marked a pivotal moment, with its unique, curvaceous design setting it apart from traditional round or rectangular watches.
Innovation has been at the heart of Franck Muller’s journey. The brand was the first to develop the double-axis tourbillon (Revolution 2), the triple-axis tourbillon (Revolution 3), and the world’s fastest tourbillon. In 2010, Franck Muller released the Aeternitas Mega 4, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, featuring 36 complications and 1,483 components. This achievement solidified Franck Muller’s reputation for horological complexity and ingenuity.
Rudaz emphasises the brand’s commitment to innovation without losing sight of its roots. “At every level, be it in innovation, limited editions, or historical inspiration, we continue to thrive in developing new designs and technologies that are integrated in ways that complement and elevate the traditional aspects of our watches,” he says.
The introduction of the Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton is another testament to Franck Muller’s enduring legacy. This watch, with its central tourbillon and skeletonised design, offers a glimpse into the future of horological artistry. As Rudaz aptly puts it, “By preserving traditional methods, the brand ensures that each watch retains the classic quality and precision that defines its heritage.”
Franck Muller continues to lead the way in the luxury watch industry, blending tradition and innovation in a way that few others can. The Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton, with its central tourbillon and skeletonised design, is a shining example of this enduring legacy, offering a glimpse into the future of horological artistry.
