Everything
For some time, many presumed the days of the suit numbered. Covid-19 almost made certain of that. With working dress codes becoming lax in recent years (but considerably so in the past two), what was considered the most quintessential of menswear ensembles was often being replaced by a more casual approach. Streetwear was on the rise. Interviews are now held on Zoom. And men wearing suits to symbolise a sense of personal style (and confidence) was dwindling.
But some have weathered the storm in marvellous fashion. Adapting to new style trends and reconsidering how to do so whilst maintaining a tailoring foundation was the job of men’s clothiers like P. Johnson and Husbands Paris, to name a few. Tinkering with the traditional formulas of menswear tailoring but catering towards the modern man, a host of menswear players were able to slowly, but surely, make tailoring cool again, and it seems that men are catching on.
We’ve rounded up our top five favourite men’s tailoring brands in the world right now and why subscribing to their services might be the wardrobe refresher you’re in need of this season.
LONDON
Since 1977, London-based men’s clothier ‘Drakes’ has been offering gents a “relaxed elegance” in the way of tailored suiting, knitwear, shirting and accessories. During a time of general rigidness in menswear, Drakes was a genuine outlier, designing garments of integrity and substance. Founded by Michael Drake, the brand originated in men’s scarves, shawls and plaids, but soon expanded to handmade ties and handkerchiefs.
Today, Drakes offers a full wardrobe solution for men, and now has four stores around the world. Walking into a Drakes store is a welcoming and simple experience; how menswear – and tailoring – should be. At Drakes, you can expect to find softly-tailored suiting from Italy, traditional knitwear from Scotland, shirts made in their own UK factory, alongside an expansive range of outerwear, accessories and Selvedge denim.
Drakes produces clothes that, in the words of Drakes Creative Director Michael Hill, “People can and will want to wear, for years and years to come.”
SYDNEY
Patrick Johnson and his eponymous made-to-measure tailoring business changed the way men dressed in Australia. Without intention of hyperbole, P.Johnson, for over ten years, has been the main port of call for men looking to charter the territory of made-to-measure tailoring and casual wear in Australia. At a time when such services were few and far between, P. Johnson established a niche – yet relatable – way of dressing for men that, historically, just wasn’t done before.
In 2022, P. Johnson is very much a part of the everyday menswear lexicon thanks to its no fuss, easy-going approach to tailoring. On any given day, walking into its beautiful sun-lit studio in Paddington or Sydney’s CBD, you will find an assortment of ready-to-wear essentials like knitwear, t-shirts, shirting and chinos, next to samples of what is possible in the realms of made-to-measure tailoring. Of course, practically all of P.Johnson’s garments can be made to your exact measurements, like suiting, blazers, shirting, denim jeans and more.
Fabrics are sourced from some of the best fabric regions in the world – including Italy, Ireland, England and Japan – and design options are practically limitless. Whether you’re in the market for a new suit, an overcoat for winter, fresh shirting for the warmer seasons or a smart-casual jacket for nights out, PJ will have you sorted.
PARIS
Nicolas Gabard, founder of the cult tailoring brand ‘Husbands’, is bringing back nostalgic menswear by offering a modern spin on traditional tailoring. And there’s no doubt that Husbands is making its mark. Already, it has developed, honed and perfected a specific silhouette that one can immediately recognise.
Founded in 2012, Husbands is on a mission to use only the best authentic fabrics and savour faire to dress men in a way that is fun and exciting yet effortlessly elegant. Its take on traditional tailoring is heavily inspired by the glory eras of the 60s, 70s and 80s, and how men of notoriety were dressing; think the likes of Mick Jagger, Bryan Ferry, and Serge Gainsbourg. Husbands pays tribute to these time-honoured styles but in a way that is tailored towards modern tastes.
Entering its Parisian studio – or even navigating its online store – you’ll find sleek single-and double-breasted suiting options, high-cut classic trousers with flared hems and accessories to boot. All of Husbands garments go through rigorous design processes to ensure each garment is made of the utmost quality and integrity. All jackets are fully canvassed, for example – an age-old technique that mirrors the quality of bespoke tailoring – and garments are designed in luxurious fabrications that will last for years to come.
MELBOURNE
One of few bespoke suiting options in the city of Melbourne – let alone in Australia – Trunk Tailors, led by its founder Jack Liang, offers exceptional suiting and sartorial garments that are completely made from scratch, as opposed to the usual made-to-measure offerings that you might find elsewhere.
Not to throw shade at MTM – it’s a fantastic service – but going down the route of bespoke is a luxury in itself. Your garment will essentially start off as a blank canvas, where your pattern is hand drawn and cut by a master tailor who will craft the garment to your exact measurements. The whole process is done by hand besides the straight sewing machines used to construct your garment.
At Trunk Tailors, which is conveniently located in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD, Liang and his small team are offering an intimate level of personalisation and an infectious appreciation for tailoring. They have travelled extensively to learn, embrace and promote the culture of fine tailoring, and you’ll gain the sense that Trunk Tailors live for menswear as soon as you walk into its studio.
Whether you’re in need of a special handmade suit for an upcoming event or simply want to update your clothing arsenal with timeless goods – think sport jackets, knitwear, overcoats and more – Trunk Tailors will carefully and meticulously work with you to create something that is unique and truly special.
HONG KONG
Since 2010, ‘The Armoury’ has been on a menswear mission to become a “truly international men’s haberdasher” and a source for the “ultimate level of service, craftsmanship and soul in menswear.” Founded by Mark Cho and Alan See, The Armoury was the answer to a service the founders could not find ten years ago in menswear; that of design, craftsmanship and personal style told through the lens of exceptional men’s tailoring.
Today, The Armoury offers men an array of options to excel on their menswear journey. Working with true artisans, you can find ready-to-wear, custom and bespoke services really available that will help you build a wardrobe of quality and substance.
