A new era of Burberry begun when Riccardo Tisci took over the helm of the British fashion house. That was over 18 months ago and since, the former Creative Director of Givenchy has presented several seasons, slowly but surely infusing his edgy, Italian sensibilities into the heritage house. London Fashion Week was the location of yet another spectacular display from Tisci as he continues to rework the face of Burberry.
Spring/Summer 2020 opened like many collections before. Tailoring, clean lines and a classic grey, black and beige colour palette was hero amongst men and womens looks, and a nod to the sensibilities of the house. The style cues didn’t stop there as Tisci paid homage to founder Thomas Burberry and the Victorian era of which the brand was born. Sweeping trench coats billowed as they were walked across the runway, fringing brushed along the floor and men’s suiting was finished with utilitarian belts. For a fleeting moment it appeared that the aesthetics of Burberry had regressed to its usual approach.
But in a seamless progression from crisp sartorial looks, belts, buckles and hardware was added to suiting and in a quick change of pace, sportswear and dare I say it, socks and sandals, made a debut. For the millennial generation perhaps it was a sigh of relief to see the globalisation of streetwear continue through the luxury house, while original customers of the brand appreciated the heritage touch. Drawing from his 12 years at Givenchy, the rugby jumper saw another revival this season albeit with touches of deconstructed cues while baggy, basketball style shorts and technical outerwear and accessories infused a sense grittiness to the collection. The remainder of the collection was striking with the use of bold prints while in keeping with the tonal palette. But for an apt finale, the anticipated runway finished in an array of rhinestone clad silhouettes.
For Tisci, while he begun his Burberry takeover in slow steps, Spring/Summer 2020 has proved his growth in design confidence while balancing fans of Burberry’s past and fanatics of what the house could, and most likely, will become.