For a fleeting moment during 2018, it appeared that the classic style of clean tailoring was all but forgotten as sportswear and utilitarian took over the runway. While it provided a renewed perspective on menswear, there was a considerable hole for modern tailoring – although the likes of Giorgio Armani and Tom Ford forged on with timeless suiting – it is the incoming Spring/Summer 2020 collections that illustrate the long awaited return.
Today for the occasion of Pitti Uomo 96 in Florence, Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller served as the guest designer for the twice-yearly event. Attracting a slew of internationally-recognised designers, buyers, editors and influencers, the schedule welcomed in the French fashion house for a menswear exclusive SS/20 collection.
“It is a huge honour for us to host the runway debut of Givenchy men’s collection under the creative direction of Clare Waight Keller” says Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine’s Director of Communication and Special Events. “A strong, modern and elegant vision: it is the perfect project for Pitti Uomo. I am certain that the atmospheres and spaces of Florence will offer Givenchy further aesthetic and symbolic motivations for concentrating on men’s fashion.”
The breathtaking backdrop of Villa Palmieri provided the apt scene for the Givenchy runway, and acted as the prelude to the menswear collection. The namesake house is known for its minimalistic silhouettes and the latest season was no different. While SS/19 had a focus on heavy leather and bold colour blocking, contrastingly, tailoring had a softer approach and was presented in a predominately beige and black colour palette.
Infusing a sense of youth and street aesthetic into the collection, long-line blazers, coats and tailored shirting was paired with lightweight sportswear. Metallic nylons and sheen textures elevated the entirety of the collection in a nod to Asian design influences while basic t-shirts and crisp pants made for added wearability. Amongst leather accessories and canvas-style bags, sneakers – including two limited-edition iterations of the Onitsuka Tiger’s iconic Nippon Made Mexico 66 – rounded out the collection.
The collection – a fusion of timeless tailoring, futuristic sportswear and a trending colour palette – was considered and balanced, and congratulations goes to Clare Waight Keller. The creative was appointed as artistic director last year and is the first female fronting the role in the history of the 66-year-old luxury house.
View the runway presentation below.