Everything
Men’s Milan Fashion Week, the first official fashion week for 2023, has just concluded and we couldn’t be more confident with the style trends emerging from one of Europe’s most stylish cities. Naturally, Milan Fashion Week was always going to be a big occasion, with pundits eager to see how some of last year’s fashion shake-ups would unfold (i.e Alessandro Michele exiting Gucci or Marco de Vincenzo’s debut as the new creative director for Etro).
There seemed to have been a trending theme at this year’s Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW23: cosy, puffy silhouettes reign. Joker-purple is also a colour of choice for many designers pushing the boundaries of the colour spectrum. There is also a sense that perhaps the idea of masculinity in fashion is (finally) being dismantled; opened to a reinterpretation of traditional dress codes, silhouettes and aesthetics. It’s exciting to see.
So, from Armani and Etro to Tod’s and Missoni, here are some of our favourite designer looks from Men’s Milan Fashion Week FW23.
Emporio Armani
The theme for the Emporio Armani FW23 show was ‘Aviation’ – and sure, allow your mind to wander to the Top-Gun aesthetic but add drabs of grey, charcoal and black to the picture.
Emporio Armani, a sub-label of Giorgio Armani and one that is more youthful in its designs, presented a neat collection of aviation refrences, from bomber jackets with splashes of modernity, flight jackets with shearling collars, dinner jackets and formal suiting attire, suiting with boots cinched into the trousers, plus much more.
Joker-purple, lilac and violet – among other purple-y shades – were also quite prominent in the FW23 lineup; some designs more striking than others. If this colour is one of choice, you’d be hard-pressed not to love the full purple peacoat presented. Equally, the formalwear that adopted purple hues into its designs was quite impressive.
The formalwear presented was overly slim-line and sleek, perhaps a nod to its older sibling in Giorgio Armani.
Etro
Etro’s collection is what I imagine trendy skater boys to have worn in the 1970s. As you can guess, the romance of the 70’s style was an inpsiration for Etro’s FW23 collection, which included a breadth of softly-tailored, unstructured, slouchy fits in muted garden colours of sorts – eccentric meets comfortable.
In what was Marco De Vincenzo’s first official show since becoming Etro’s Creative Director, by all accounts the Sicilian provided the kind of shake-up the 55-year old Italian label needed. Merino wool was plentiful, with jumpers, cardigans and knits designed with a relaxed, worn-in feel that perhaps is an indication of where the future lies for Etro.
We loved the power suits that were symbolic of 70’s fits; boxy, large lapels, structured shoulders and oversized fits in bold chekered prints and patterns. No designs were too serious; only seriously cool.
Tod’s
Walter Chiapponi, Tod’s Creative Director, presented a structured FW23 collection titled ‘The Italian Portrait at Villa Necchi‘. What was notable from this collection was a shift away from a sporty aesthetic, with a focus towards designing looks more associated with elegance and class – and the rediscovery of Italian elegance.
Warm tones of brown, beige, tan and slate grey were found in items like the classic bomber jacket, flight jackets, leather pants and zip-through knitwear.
The collection was overly structured, tailored and sophisticated – a trend we’ll definitely see more from Tod’s in the months to come.
Missoni
There’s something exciting happening at Missoni Man. Sure, it’s still the same Missoni aesthetic we know and love – there’s splashes of colour, there are cardigans and knits and the “zig-zag” motif is still prominent. But the FW23 collection is simply rooted in versatility.
Some standout designs from the new collection include relaxed knitwear in warm tones of reds, purples and beige, track jackets and pants that we immediately desire, denim jackets and overshirts, and monochromatic soft suiting in charcoal and grey – Italian style.
There’s also classic overcoats and varied geometric designs, like Fiammato patterns, chevrons, stripes, zig-zags and more.
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