As the leading players in Italian – and global – menswear continue to dazzle the fashion world with their spring/summer collections in one of the world’s fashion capitals, Milan, we take a moment to round up some of favourite looks from designers you might have missed.
There seems to be a trending theme at this year’s Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS23: less is more. Less structure, less tailoring, less expectation, less monochrome, less normal. And we’re loving it.
From Brioni to Moschino, here are some of our favourite designer looks to expect for spring/summer 2023.
Brioni continues to go strength to strength within each new season, thanks to its ability to attract the modern man who appreciates fine craftsmanship and provenance; modernity combined with tradition. The SS23 collection is a testament to this, highlighting the Roman brand’s love for beautiful, soft tailoring crafted by hand by true artisans.
Unveiled inside a hidden garden in Milan, guests were privy to Norbert Stumpfl’s vision of soft tailoring in breezy fabrics – fabrics that move with the wearer, not against – muted tones of brown and beige and sand and olive, chic chunky knitwear, round toe loafers, leather sandals, crocodile leather loafer, and even a pink double-breasted suit to throw in something different.
Offering an anecdote to reflect the idea of individuality, Stumpfl said: “One of our young clients choose a pale pink suit to propose in. It made me so happy, it felt so nice, and it was proof that Brioni is the go-to label to celebrate the most special and intimate moments.,” he said.
“For Spring, no business, no ties, but supple, formally informal tailoring for young men.”
Jonathan Anderson of the eponymous label JW Anderson staged his long-awaited SS23 collection unveiling in Milan much to the delight (and surprise) of the guests in attendance. While you can always expect a different kind of runway viewing at Anderson’s shows, his SS23 collection might have been the best of Milan Fashion Week.
Jumping back to the 90s and early Noughts, we were treated to jumpers with bicycle handlebars, another with a broken skateboard, ripped denim in loose, lofty fits, beer-can holes and rubber gloves stuck on, ripped t-shirts with hidden barcodes. It was eccentric and daring yet exactly what we had hoped to see from JW Anderson: an offering for the viewer to make up their own assumption on what was being presented and how you could (or would) wear it.
Per the JW Anderson release, “[It’s] a collection that asks to be looked at in perspective: from the peak of the selfie stick,” and capturing this is Anderson’s Rembrandt reference. Across trousers, knitwear and printed sneakers is the artist’s 1630 work of art titled Self-portrait in a Cap, Wide-eyed and Open-mouthed, a self-portrait by all means but perhaps a 400-year-old selfie, too.This tongue-in-cheek attitude continued with further clashes on the runway: a skateboard snapped in two crisscrosses through a gray mohair sweater, handlebars from a BMX act as a harness for striped long-sleeve T-shirts, and a selection of tees are fitted with metal can ring tops, crinkled and bent open like a looking glass into the wearer.Anderson asks “What is subjective, and what is objective anyway?”
For Moschino’s SS23 Collection, creative director Jeremy Scott paid homage to the late artist Tony Viramontes. Scott described him as a “lively chameleon”, and went on to say via the show notes “I wanted to shine a light on this brilliant creator. He may not be a household name, but Tony Viramontes is a force.” – much like Scott himself.
You can see Viramontes’ work clearly through the work of Scott in Moschino’s SS23 collection: bright and bold suits with squiggles lines, faces and motifs that mimic Viramontes’ work, as well as splashes of pop colour with a theme of ‘yellow’ dominant throughout. Tailored suiting in tartan checks paired with combat boots, drapey overcoats with embellishments inspired by Viramontes’ work, plus an assemblage of tailoring essentials.
If you couldn’t get enough of Versace’s SS23 Collection, you’re not alone. Donatella Versace showcased the latest reflection of the “Versace Man”, offering “fun and formal, bravado and sensitivity, Baroque and pop” – and an ode to Gen Z, it would seem.
“When I work, I think of Generation Z and the freedom they have in not being afraid to mix contrasting pieces together,” Versace said via a press statement.
“Pop-art meets classicism – contrast like this is everything to me, it makes you think and feel.”
Versace’s SS23 offers a fresh outlook on tailoring synonymous with the luxury fashion house: oversized silhouettes in most of its tailored suiting, which is generously doused in pastels and bright pops of colours. Suiting is strong and dominant, with classic shoulders, wider lapels and slaps of colour and pattern.
Versace even enlisted the use of eco-sustainable latex and faux leather in its collection, further cementing its endeavour toward sustainability. Bright styling is favoured with graphic prints emblazoned in pop colours across shirts and T-shirts.
BOSS unveiled its latest limited-edition capsule collection at this year’s Milan Fashion Week with a collaboration with TikTok sensation, Khaby Lame.
The new BOSS x KHABY was unveiled at the iconic Milan nightlife spot Plastic, offering the star-studded guest list a first look at this stylish, easy-wearing collection that highlights BOSS’ bold new direction. It fuses dynamic design with the wit and bold self-expression of Khaby Lame (you only need to watch one of his viral videos to know what we’re talking about).
The exclusive collaboration is comprised of all-black styles with leather details and a signature logo depicting Khaby’s likeness. Highlights include a BOSS-branded hoodie, leather varsity jacket, plain t-shirt and stylish accessories to match. To round out the collection, a doll of the social media star was co-created by Khaby himself which will be released on his social media channels.
Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS23 runs from 17 – 21 June