Everything
For his debut collection at as creative director for menswear at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams shut down one of the most famous thoroughfares of Paris: the Pont Neuf. His sophomore show, and the Maison’s first pre-fall collection for the men’s line, the 50-year-old artist did the same thing to Hong Kong’s Avenue of Stars.
We’re beginning to sense a theme here.
Not just the propensity for Williams to literally stop traffic for his collections, both foot and vehicular, but for Williams’ affinity for water. (Never forget The Neptunes). While the former was purely geographical, for the pre-fall collection it was both a visible element in the landscape of one of the most important ports in world history and a narrative thread connecting the collection.
Sailing, sailors, surf, fishermen, ports and harbours – the facets that water plays in our life as both leisure and trade were variously represented throughout the collection, starting with a dandified sailor before it evolved into something more rustic, the surfer who lives day by day with the ocean his only constant.
Among the more direct references was the workwear element such as peacoats and striped double-breasted sailor uniforms. Hawaiian prints on Aloha shirts and matching pants took as to tropical beaches while beaded shorts, ponchos and wetsuits in neoprene and rattan hats cemented the luxe-ness of vacationing by the water.
Pearls, a longtime motif of Williams’ own personal aesthetic, were also a strong presence, tiny little moons stitched onto clothes to create outlines of waves, fishes and florals.
Williams’ also remained committed to showcasing how vital accessories are to the Louis Vuitton creative pulse. A spotlight was shone on revised iterations of the iconic Speedy and an avant-garde chest bag, both adorned in a dual-tone Damier pattern. This contemporary twist on the classic design, drawn straight from Louis Vuitton’s archives, retained the charm of the original with its hand-brushed detailing.
The runway also saw the introduction of LV Aloha prints, adding a vibrant touch to the collection. In a nod to artisanal craftsmanship, the brand presented exquisitely woven raffia pieces, blending traditional techniques with modern luxury. Another highlight was a new ‘scuba-inspired’ take on the damier checkerboard, infusing a sense of aquatic adventure into the classic pattern.
Footwear was not left behind in this tide of innovation. A sleek new shoe model named ‘Cobra’ made its debut. Crafted using 3D printing technology in TPU, the Cobra featured a delicate mesh pattern, complemented by strategically placed air vents for an aerodynamic edge. This fusion of style and functionality left an indelible mark on the runway, akin to footsteps in the sand, pointing towards a future where fashion meets forward-thinking design.
If there had been any doubt as to whether Williams was the right person to take Louis Vuitton into a post-Abloh future, perhaps they can quell those misgiving. There’s still homage paid to the man who revolutionised what the Louis Vuitton offering could look like, but Williams has wasted no time in setting the course for his tenure at the brand.
