Everything
Elegance in minimalism, beauty in purity and complexity in simplicity – French perfume maison Matière Première, under the creative vision of founder Aurélien Guichard, is what you might describe as the perfumer’s perfume. A brand fragrance aficionados eventually come to when they begin to understand the technical skill it takes to highlight the beauty of perfumery’s raw materials. Singling out specific notes – tuberose, neroli or rose for example – Guichard brings out their many facets in a trompe l’oeil of a soliflore.
“Olfactively speaking, natural raw materials are fascinatingly complex to work with,” he explains.
“As a Perfumer, the creative challenge of overdosing on a central natural ingredient means that I have to both emphasise its positive sides while tempering any less desirable notes. In technical terms, this means that I use very few, carefully selected additional ingredients – both natural and synthetic – to facet the central ingredient and reveal its most beautiful elements.”
If you’re not familiar with Guichard by name, you’d be familiar with his work. A native of Grasse, Guichard has been the creator for some of the most commercially successful fragrances of the last decade, including the gardenia-based powerhouse Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez, Versace Eros and Bond No. 9’s Chinatown. When he first launched Matiere Premiere in 2019, along with co-founder Caius von Knorring and Cédric Meiffret, it was a two-fold directive: to showcase the artistry of the industry and replicate the raw beauty of nature.
Guichard’s latest olfactory creation, Vanilla Powder, showcases the complex, yet understated elegance of one of perfumery’s trickiest yet most popular notes: vanilla. Tricky, because not only is the extraction process long and meticulous and making it one of the most expensive ingredients, but because it can very easily veer off into sticky and over sweet territory. “Vanilla is a classic ingredient in perfumery, and there are many existing masterpieces exploring the richer, darker side of vanilla,” Guichard tells ICON.
“With Vanilla Powder, I wanted to go in the opposite direction, and create a different, even surprising take on vanilla that would be far from the sweetness that one could expect. I chose to contrast the deep and dark facets of the vanilla absolute from Madagascar.”
Vanilla Powder’s inception began with that discovery: an absolute of Madagascar vanilla from a Fair for Life agricultural program. This vanilla, characterised by its richness, suppleness, and warmth, sits at the heart of Vanilla Powder, challenging the conventional perceptions of vanilla in perfumery.
In Vanilla Powder, Guichard diverges from traditional interpretations of vanilla, avoiding expected sweetness. Instead, he contrasts the deep, dark facets of the vanilla absolute with natural Palo Santo oil and an explosion of white modern powders – coconut and white musks – infusing the fragrance with a contemporary and luminous aspect.
Discussing the creative journey, Guichard shares, “The first versions of Vanilla Powder were much closer to the smell of the Vanilla Absolute itself…rich, warm, intense and quite comforting.” However, to avoid the cliché dessert-like connotations often associated with vanilla, he introduced luminosity and verticality, resulting in a sophisticated interpretation.
The fragrance’s unique profile is a testament to Guichard’s ingenuity, combining dark vanilla beans with the contrasting white Palo Santo wood. This synergy creates a scent that is both profound and radiant. Guichard emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in his creations, stating, “I believe that the quality of the perfume is very much linked to the sourcing, to the ingredient.” This commitment extends to growing their own ingredients organically on their Ecocert farm in the Grasse region of France.
When crafting new fragrances, Guichard’s methodology is both meticulous and intuitive. He focuses on the inherent complexity of the hero ingredient, selecting additional notes that enhance its most beautiful elements. Guichard explains, “As a Perfumer, the creative challenge of overdosing on a central natural ingredient means that I have to both emphasise its positive sides while tempering any less desirable notes.”
The creation of Vanilla Powder was a journey of experimentation and refinement, showcasing Guichard’s dedication to respecting periods of maturation and maceration. This ensures that Matière Première fragrances are enduring and evolve beautifully over time.
Reflecting on the challenges of launching Matière Première, Guichard acknowledges the continuous intersection of creativity, entrepreneurship, and agriculture. Despite economic obstacles and crises like COVID, the primary challenge remains to create contemporary and intriguing interpretations of natural raw materials. “We want to keep offering fragrances that are extremely qualitative, contemporary, direct and understandable,” he says.
Looking to the future, Guichard, alongside co-founders Caius von Knorring and Cédric Meiffret, aspires to offer some of the most qualitative perfumes globally, creating a true emotional imprint. He expresses excitement over exploring new raw materials, such as lavender from their own farm, hinting at the endless possibilities for future creations.
Vanilla Powder, with its sophisticated and modern take on a classic ingredient, exemplifies Matière Première’s commitment to reimagining scent through minimalist yet complex designs. In Guichard’s words, “I am very excited at the prospect of creating our very own Matiere Première take on lavender…” This excitement and passion are evident in every bottle, inviting fragrance enthusiasts to experience a unique journey with each scent.
