Everything
The style archives of the 1990s may currently have a firm grip on the fashion scene, but go back a little further, to France in the 1790s and perhaps even earlier than that, you’ll find the opulent and groundbreaking era that inspires niche fragrance house, Parfums de Marly.
Founded in 2009 by Julien Sprecher, the story of Parfums de Marly is inseparable from the grandeur of the French court, particularly during the reign of King Louis XV, explains Parfums de Marly’s CEO Julien Sausset. “The friends of King Louis XV were avant garde and forward thinking. It’s at that time actually that the modern perfumery was invented. The spirit of the Château de Marly, and the spirit of Parfums de Marly, is that forward thinking mood.”
There’s already several fragrances that have achieved cult infamy since it launched. Such as the radiantly rich Carlisle that combines patchouli and vanilla with a burst of bright green apple and warm golden saffron. Or the herbacious and animalic Haltane that features precious oudwood. Personally, it’s Herod that stands out as one of the most magnificent for its blend of tobacco, vanilla and the fresh peachy leather of osmanthus.
Known as ‘the perfumed court’, the era was marked by an extravagant love for exquisite scents. According to legend, the king demanded a new fragrance for every day, and the court followed suit, setting a standard for perfume that resonated through the centuries. This period’s opulence, creativity, and passion for perfume form the cornerstone of Parfums de Marly’s identity.
Founded in the 21st century, rooted in the 18th, Parfums de Marly pays homage to this rich history. The brand’s name itself is a nod to the Chateau de Marly, a royal palace famed for its leisurely pursuits and luxurious lifestyle. But Parfums de Marly doesn’t just dwell in the past. It merges historical inspiration with modern perfumery techniques, creating fragrances that are both timeless and contemporary.
Sausset thinks that the values that were espoused here, the free spirits of creativity and community, are what resonates with the fans of Parfums de Marly today. “Versailles was where the king worked,” he tells ICON. “Château de Marly was more a place for fun and everybody wanted to be invited. Not everyone was invited, but it was a place for fun. And I think today people want to enjoy this. They want to enjoy the world we live in. People want to look after themselves and share their joy.”
In an industry often criticised for uniformity and mass appeal, Parfums de Marly has carved out a distinct niche. Their fragrances are known for their complexity and richness, bucking the trend for soliflore scents we’ve seen grow in both commercial and niche perfumery. Where there’s been a propensity for brands to follow the trend for creating minimalist-like perfumes of singular notes, Parfums de Marly relishes in the complexity of accords that reveal themselves over time. Sausset explains that this comes from ignoring trends, and focusing instead on that creative exploration that is the brand’s heart. This, he says, is what makes a perfume that lasts a lifetime as opposed to a season, along the lines of fellow legends Chanel No. 5 or Mitsouko by Guerlain, for example.
“Perfume is a bit more complex than what you see in fashion, which is very fast moving,” he tells ICON. “ If you look at some fragrances on the market… you have some fabulous juices that have been going through the years. And people want that singularity [a single fragrance for any occasion.] You want something that makes you feel confident, you want something that is right to go out in. You want something that plays according to your mood, but you want something that you will not find on your neighbour. So you want something special.”
The latest addition to their collection, Althaïr, is a direct answer to this need for complex singularity. Althaïr, the fragrance is a bold blend of aromatic and spicy notes, grounded in a warm, woody base sweetened by a subtle praline heart. Created by perfumers Hamid Merati-Kashani and Ilias Ermenidis, Althaïr brings the classic note of Bourbon Vanilla to the forefront, a direct descendant of the vanilla introduced in France under the reign of Louis XV according to the press notes. Known for its intensity, its mouthwatering sweetness is tempered by the freshness of bergamot and the warm glow of cardamom.
“It’s a very fine vanilla,” says Sausset. “It’s a fresh vanilla, it’s not sticky and it’s very unisex although it’s sitting in the masculine collection. And this freshness, it was important to [the founder] Julien. He worked with Hamid Merati-Kashani, one of his favourite partners in crime at the time for creating masculine fragrances. They spent quite a lot of time on this one, with lots of back and forth. Creating a perfume is really a game between a a creative director, a trendsetter like Julien, and a perfumer who’s more of a chemist.”
Althaïr’s launch is not just the release of a new fragrance. It represents the ongoing evolution of Parfums de Marly. With each new scent, they redefine what a perfume can be. They challenge the boundaries of the industry, inviting us to experience fragrance as an art form.
