Everything
MILAN Fashion week has wrapped up in the Italian capital (onward, to Paris now) and the biggest takeaway we can see is that, while quiet luxury still seems to hanging around, menswear has found its voice again. Taken things up a few decibels so to speak.
Jonathan Anderson continues a winning streak with his eponymous J.W. Anderson collection, bringing a daring and eclectic vibe, inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut. Anderson’s designs spanned a spectrum from prim to perverse, with triptych knit-jersey dresses featuring Christiane Kubrick’s paintings as a central theme.
The collection steered clear of overt film references, instead weaving a narrative of twisted bourgeois eroticism, with red as a dominant colour in statement pieces like an oversized velvet evening jacket for men and a red velvet jumpsuit for women. Anderson’s signature shorts appeared in rib-knit versions, paired with unsettling satin whorls, while provocative styling, such as tights over panties, added a daring edge. The collection was a thought-provoking blend of fashion and cinema and a highlight of what has been a stellar Milan Fashion Week.
Tod’s presented its Fall collection at the Villa Necchi Campiglio, the first without former creative director Walter Chiapponi and created by the in-house studio. This outing was a testament to luxurious materials and Italian craftsmanship through the PASHMY project. The collection was highlighted by the functional yet fashionable Pashmy bomber, featuring water-repellent and stain-resistant properties, and a colour palette of warm chestnut, écru, and cool tones of ice and teal.
Standout items included the Tod’s W.G. boot, inspired by aviator and après ski styles, and the Bubble Gommino in varied textures like long fur and crocodile. Urban sneakers and the iconic Di Bag complemented the collection, which focused on smooth, refined materials. Notable pieces such as a featherlight wool biker jacket and a double cashmere camel blazer, inspired by Gio Ponti, underscored the collection’s sophisticated yet relaxed vibe.
At the Dolce & Gabbana men’s show, the theme “Sleek” redefined elegance through the lens of handmade craftsmanship and classic Italian tailoring. Predominantly showcasing black suits with a few exceptions in white, camel, and grey, the collection exuded a timeless, romantic allure reminiscent of Visconti films. Key features included spencer jackets, tuxedos, and tight coats, accented with luxurious satin blouses, thin scarf collars, and organza flowers. The collection’s sensual interpretation of masculinity was further enhanced by the show’s velvety ambiance, set to a soulful piano soundtrack.
