Everything
In an industry where so many creative directors are so eager to erase the past of the brand they work for in order to put their own stamp on it (not naming any names but you know who you are), Anthony Vaccarello seems determined to make sure that, despite its streamlining of the brand name, the Yves is always and forever a part of the Saint Laurent universe.
His latest collection for the French house shown in Paris at the Bourse de Commerce overnight can only be described as an homage to the man who transformed the way modern women and men dressed. More than an homage, the collection felt like Vaccarello was channelling the late designer himself, creating a narrative of clothing that it would be easy to see Yves wearing today.
The show started with a series of double-breasted 80s-esque power suits whose architecture was softened by the signature languid draping of Saint Laurent tailoring. Trench coats and the iconic Yves eyewear continued the referencing of brand’s eponymous founder. Trousers were cut delightfully loose – the word billowing comes to mind – while the sharpness of the shoulders in the jackets gave the impression that all this fluid rakishness hang off their sculpted corners.
At the core of Yves’ worldview was the blurring of masculine and feminine elements, of tailoring and couture techniques. Thus far, Vaccarello has been true to this vision with both his men’s and women’s collections holding up a metaphoric two-way mirror to the other. This latest show was perhaps the testosterone heavy production that he has delivered during his tenure, softened somewhat by the colour palate of mauves, nudes and lush chocolate.
But it wasn’t all business, with several looks sent out that that reminded viewers of Yves’ Dionysian side that lurked beneath the crisp French exterior. Leather caps and structured rubber peacoats that wouldn’t look out of place at an underground BDSM bar that drew from a 1960s archival reference added the right amount of sensual darkness that has been Vaccarello’s signature since joining the brand.
After the show, Vaccarello noted that it wasn’t just an image of the brand’s founder that was on his mind during the creative process. He was also considering Patrick Bateman.
Not that Vaccarello believes that Bateman, protagonist of Bret Easton Ellis’ groundbreaking yet deeply controversial text American Psycho, has any similarity to the life and style of Yves Saint Laurent. It was more the attitude that Bateman had towards his appearance – not a hair out of place, not a wrinkle to be seen, not a suit that wasn’t cut to perfection.
