Since joining the Dior family Kim Jones has positioned himself as the king collaborator, partnering with artists and musicians to create menswear collections so attuned to the moment they might have been a time capsule.
For the new 2022 Winter collection, Jones took a break from bringing in third parties and released one of his first “solo” shows in some time, and instead looked within for inspiration. Both figuratively and literally.
If there was no official physical collaborative partner, there was definitely one in spirit.
The presence of the maison’s founder, the eponymous Christian Dior, was clearly felt throughout the collection.
In digging through the house’s archives, Jones translated some of the house’s most memorable creations and motifs into his menswear collection.
A leather jacket that wouldn’t look out of place on the back of James Dean referenced an earlier, fur trimmed incarnation from Saint Laurent era while flora-inspired embroidery immediately recalls a dress that featured in the Spring 1953 collection.
Jones also dug into the savoir faire of Christian himself and his penchant for matching headwear to each outfit mirrored in Jones’ introduction of modern berets and caps.
One of the French designer’s passions outside of fashion was his garden at Ville de Granville and this love for flowers and their delicate beauty was a regular theme to appear, embroidered on the edges of knits or delicate sheer tanks worn over shirting.
This was contrasted with more sport-esque finish of the trousers, a juxtaposition of trackside and eveningwear.
Add to that a Dior-ified version of the ultimate garden shoe, the Birkenstock, and we’re reminded menswear for Jones is a hybridised experience.
Jones has always been able to marry tailoring to casual, or practical, needs and this latest collection – without the distraction of external creatives – brought this back into sharp relief.
Wearable shouldn’t automatically mean simple and Jones repeatedly elevated the collection with couture-level details and embellishments.
This also goes to the inclusion of high jewellery for men. Jones collaborated again with Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Christian Dior’s fine jewellery, to present an exclusive piece of haute joaillerie for the Dior Winter 2022-2023. A bracelet made of white gold, diamonds with exquisite emeralds flanking the CD initials in the Art Deco style.
Men can be glamorous too, you see.