No matter the state of the world, or the fashion’s flux, you can count on Giorgio Armani to deliver what he does best for menswear. It’s as guaranteed as the sun rising and equally as breathtaking once the scene is set and for his Spring Summer 2023, the Italian OG let a little light in.
The centre of that Venn diagram representing casual and workwear, of formal tailoring and leisurewear, is one that Armani is a master of pinpointing. Perhaps this is because traditionally, Armani the man has never separated work from play in his clothing. Both are an equal expression of style. For Spring Summer ’23, the sense of play was perhaps at its most dominant after a series of shows that, influenced by world events, took a much more somber tone.
For starters, it’s not often that we see the colour purple – or turquoise for that matter – in the mix of Armani’s usual sea of grey, navy and greige. The patterned knits splashed with colour and grape-hued trousers stood out like exotic flowers among the more familiar hues. A silk shirt in lilac with a tree print added to the sense that Armani was not interested in seriousness but rather was using clothing to express a feeling happiness or joy about the world around us.
Lightweight blazers were draped over elongated, equally relaxed shirting. Armani’s eye for the subtle clashing of prints is as keen as ever, giving even the most traditional suiting which fluctuated between shawl and double-breasted fronts in appealing waves an elevated finish. While the influence of Japan’s minimalist aesthetic has been ever-present in the DNA of Armani’s designs for years now (“the Japanese are more Armani than Armani” the designer has been noted to say) the cultural inspiration of sartorial traditions of India, South East Asia and beyond was particularly visible in this collection in the cut and shape of jackets.