Everything
Can’t Be Beet, 1.98 Standard Drinks
45ml Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami, 15ml Tingala Liqueur, 30ml Beetroot and Black Pepper Syrup, 30ml Lemon Juice, 20ml Egg White (for Syrup), 1/2 cup Hot Water, 1/2 cup Turbinado Sugar or Brown Sugar, 1/2 tsp Beetroot Powder, 1/8 tsp Fresh Ground Black Pepper
Enjoy with: Roast Beetroot Goat Cheese Cream, Walnuts and Baby Kale
The sharing of food and drink, with its vast landscapes of flavour and textures that accompany the practice, is one of the oldest rituals used by humans as a way of connecting with each other. This tradition transcends the purpose of sustenance, embodying the essence of hospitality, trust, and mutual respect among individuals. In ancient Greece, the symposium was not merely a banquet but a forum for philosophical discourse and cultural exchange. Similarly, in Roman society, the sharing of delicacies and fine drink was integral to social and political life, serving as occasions for reinforcing social hierarchies and bonds of patronage. These gatherings were not only about the consumption of food but also about the performance of social rituals that defined the community’s values and norms.
To share your food or drink was to place trust in another. As one famous chef once described it, “the gesture of sitting down to a meal and breaking bread together is the first step toward rebuilding dignity and creating community.” During a toast, we share in the flavours of a drink while participating in the same ritual of community and trust. Raise a glass of whisky amongst friends and the sophistication of flavours that reside within unfold as each palate picks out specific notes and aromas like memories. Eventually, sharing evolved into the art of pairing, where the taste of one would enhance the flavours and textures of the other. Red wine with red meat is rooted in the complementary flavours and textures that enhance the dining experience. But we now know how tannins in red wine interact with the protein and fat in red meat, softening the meat’s texture and enriching the wine’s palate.
Grilled Fresh Unagi, Kinshi Tamago, Pickled Ginger, Sansho and Unagi Truffe Sauce
Today this ritual of sharing, be it food or whisky and in this case, both, can also be seen as the gateway where culture, tradition and innovation can meet to drive all three forward into a new phase of sensory experience. This was the goal for Johnnie Walker’s master blender Emma Walker and Chef Kei Kobayashi when they first met to discuss the possibility of working together to create a unique blend of whisky, a blend that would embody their respective expertise. “Johnnie Walker was born out of a desire to drive progress and to push the boundaries of what’s possible in whisky,” says Walker.
“These days, we look to create blends that appeal to a wide audience and are versatile in terms of how they can be enjoyed. Creating a whisky that captures a uniquely elusive flavour, and that can be paired with food, is an innovation that we hope will awaken the senses of whisky lovers and those new to the whisky world and partnering with Chef Kei Kobayashi is reflective of our desire to drive progress and innovation.”
So, Walker travelled to Paris in June of 2022 to meet Chef Kei at his eponymous restaurant on the Rue Coq Héron in the city’s 1st arrondissement. “I was lucky enough to get to travel to Chef’s wonderful restaurant – Restaurant Kei – and the journey we undertook together was truly an exploration of flavour,” she recollects. “[It was here] where we set about bringing together our expertise in whisky making and creative gastronomy.”
La Nueva Moda, 2.41 Standard Drinks
45ml Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami, 15ml Mezcal, 15ml Solerno, 2 dashes Orange Bitters, 2 dashes Cherry Bitters, 15ml Egg White, Shaved Frozen Cherry Dust
Whisky, with its rich tapestry of flavours and inherent intricacies, has traditionally stood apart from the practice of food pairing, a testament to its esteemed status as a standalone beverage. Revered for its depth and the meticulous craftsmanship behind each bottle, whisky enthusiasts have often savoured it in isolation, allowing its intricate notes to unfold without the influence of accompanying palate. At best, chocolate or dried fruit was perhaps offered in tandem to a dram. This singular appreciation underscores the spirit’s unique character, which encompasses a broad spectrum of aromas and tastes, from smoky peat to sweet vanilla. Despite its potential for enhancing culinary experiences, whisky’s multifaceted nature has historically positioned it beyond the realm of traditional food pairings, inviting a pure, unadulterated engagement with its complexity.
The meeting, and subsequent collaboration, marked the first time that the whisky house had worked with a world renowned chef to develop, in Walker’s words, a cultural change maker. “So it was important that we found a core language – and this was flavour! As two craftspeople from different worlds, we respected each other’s knowledge and bound this together to find the taste and emotion attached to the liquid,” she explains.
Thus, the new limited edition Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami was born with an accompanying menu designed by Chef Kei that would serve to complement and elevate the natural flavours of both food and whisky and prove that the dram is arguably the perfect food pairing.
The fifth basic taste, umami was only recognised in the early 20th century by Japanese scientist named Kikunae Ikeda. Yet despite its relevantly recent “discovery”, umami pervades our culinary experiences, offering a profound depth and fullness to a wide array of dishes proving to be a chameleon when it comes to flavour profile, working as a natural enhancer according to Chef Kei. “The purest form of umami that we taste is glutamate, also known as glutamic acid,” says Chef Kei. “Glutamate has a unique affinity with the umami taste receptors on the tongue, it reacts with taste receptors that ‘amplify’ the flavours it comes into contact with…Foods that are naturally high in glutamate are things like ripe tomatoes, aged meats and cheese, mushrooms and soup stocks.”
Assorted Seaweed, Nashi Pear, Caramelised Macadamia and Gomadare
Often described as a rich, brothy, meaty or savoury experience, umami at first feels far from the end of the spectrum of whisky’s fiery depths of luxuriant palate that traditionally has flavours of vanilla, oak or cacao and the smoky sweetness of peat. But perhaps the greater mystery of umami is that it isn’t just a flavour but a sensation and aesthetic in and of itself. One of balance and harmony between flavours and the body. In fact, umami was once described as “something that’s kind to the body,” by then president of the Organisation to Promote Japanese Restaurants Abroad (JRO), Kazu Katoh.
“Umami is inherently elusive – difficult to decode, meaning something different to different people, and we wanted to acknowledge the personal aspect of such a complex flavour,” says Walker. “When we’re talking about flavour AND understanding of umami, it is such a personal experience – both are inherently linked to your experience and background, so this was a smooth translation.
“Every time we discussed our whisky, we were always thinking about the customer – what we wanted them to experience, how they were going to experience the whisky, with and without amazing food, and how we would deliver this,” Walker shares, highlighting the customer-centric approach that guided creative journey that she and Chef Kei undertook in the creation of the blend.
The collaborative process provided both Walker and Chef Kei a chance to unpack the unique versatility that whisky has. Palate, and taste, aren’t just subjective aesthetics they’re dictated by culture too. This meeting, says Walker, became an excavation of whisky’s potential.
“We handpicked whiskies like they were ingredients from salty, smoky notes to savoury, meaty flavours. Sipping and nosing, we went back and forth making sure we knew the ingredients but leaving each other the space to make recommendations and commentary based on our own expertise.”
Deep Whisky Sour, 1.87 Standard Drinks
60ml Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami, 30ml Lemon Juice, 20ml Simple Syrup, 3 Egg Whites, Dehydrated Orange Slice for garnish
The result is a blend that contains the vivid tang of blood oranges and the richness of red berries. Complemented by the warmth of sweet wood spice and nuanced with a touch of smoked meat, it also reveals subtle notes of salt and pepper. The experience is rounded off with a long, sweet, fruit-driven finish. A whisky that’s not only elusive in name, but elusive in the construction too: “Only one in 25,000 casks made the cut in the search for the elusive flavour profile,” Walker points out. “Each expression of whisky was hand-picked to create this umami profile when brought together and bring the unique character of this innovative whisky to life.”
For his part, Chef Kei looked to the inherent mutability of umami as a way of creating a bridge between the world of whisky and the elusive fifth taste. “Umami can be explored through many different dishes so it was up to me as a Chef and Creator to come up with dishes that would perfectly pair with the savoury tastes of Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami. That’s not to say that umami couldn’t be explored through anything from bacon to caviar, it can mean different things to different people; the options are endless.
“My goal with the dishes I created was to perfectly complement both the sweet and savoury notes of Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami and deliver layers of flavours and combinations that truly bring umami to life,” Chef Kei explains.
To capture these layers of taste plus the complexity and depth of umami, Chef Kei created three unique dishes as the ideal pairing for Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami; a crusty buckwheat waffle, with lemon condiment, “Kristal’’ caviar from French Kaviari Maison, smoked salmon cream. Hay-smoked lobster, shiitake mushroom fricassee and homardine sauce. Thirdly, and to sweeten the finisher, a chocolate tart with a spray of Elusive Umami.
If you’re familiar with the mouthfeel of whisky from a traditional perspective you may immediately spot the experience of the drink that Chef Kei has captured – from the fire of the first taste as it moves over your tongue, it’s more delicate notes that reveal in the middle before the afterglow of chocolate and sweetness after you’ve allowed it to mellow post swallow. It’s a journey that Chef Kei has joyfully celebrated that centres the innate complexities of both umami and whisky.
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami 750ml
“For example with the oyster ‘en gelee’ I created, we see the synergy between the briny notes of the oyster and the subtle maritime qualities of the whisky but with added buttery nutty notes again coming from the caviar. The juxtaposition here being the use of acid in the shallot granita to cut through and lift the dish turns my focus to the slight red berry and blood orange that cuts through the creaminess of the grain whiskies that help make up this whisky.”
The true star of the pairing, says Chef Kei, is the caviar. Perhaps surprising for traditionalists who come from the square of chocolate school approach to whisky. “Oscietra Caviar has been chosen for its undeniable concentration of umami and mineral character. The cleanliness of the caviar, in partnership with the whisky, complements and elevates one another. Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami displays rich caramelised miso notes, including tropical top notes of grilled pineapple, rich cacao and blackberry tannin. This finishes with a cleansing mineral salinity. Creamy and slightly briny caviar matches the whisky perfectly, as the inherent cacao and dark fruit tannin in the whisky pair with the savoury nature of the caviar.”
“The collaboration with Chef Kei Kobayashi is a great example of how we want to cultivate progress in food culture and recruit a new generation of whisky lovers,” says Walker. “We continue to work closely with our Johnnie Walker colleagues around the world ensuring that we are at the forefront of cultural trends and shifts, allowing us to innovate and progress. We believe there is no ‘correct’ way to drink whisky – we want people to enjoy the incredible breadth of flavour that Scotch has to offer, and we want people to explore and discover whisky in whatever way they chose to. We want people to have fun with whisky!”
Always Drink Responsibly.
Creative Direction: Agata Wycichowska
Photography: Vladimir Marti
Top Banner Image: Terracotta, 3.04 Standard Drinks: 60ml Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami, 30ml Passionfruit Juice, 60ml Amaro, 20ml Almond Cordial, Splash Lemon Juice, Lemon Peel, 1 Egg White, Banana Leaf to garnish
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