Milan Fashion Week SS23, while predominantly covering all the latest womenswear collections for the impending season, also featured a wealth of menswear showings to round off what was an electric week of runway fashion.
Newcomer to the Ferragamo brand, Maximilian Davis showcased why he’s fit to helm the position of creative director of one of Europe’s most luxurious, heritage fashion houses. The SS23 collection for fashion fiends to obsesses over, marking a bright new start for the house rebrand under Davis’ direction.
His first point of call? A logo refresh for Ferragamo, a play which Davis likely adopted from likes of Hedi Slimane (Saint Laurent; Celine,) and Riccardo Tisci (Burberry).
In Milan, as models walked acros blood-red dyed sand situated behind the forthcoming Portrait Milano Hotel, Davis unveiled a tasteful collection debut that masterfully creates a ready-to-wear and accessories line both men and women will be vying to wear this coming season. We saw long drapes of suiting in relaxed fits, tonal colour palettes in plenty, utilitarian jackets with matching pants, column dresses and a play on asymmetries; tops and swimwear imperfectly married together.
“The sand relates to Ferragamo, to Hollywood, to the ocean – but also to me, and to my own DNA. To what the sea means to Caribbean culture: a place where you can go to reflect and feel at one. I wanted to show that perspective, but now through the Ferragamo lens,” explained Davis via a press release.
“It was about looking into the archive and establishing what could be redefined to become relevant for today. I wanted to pay tribute to Salvatore’s start by bringing in the culture of Hollywood – but new Hollywood. Its ease and sensuality; its sunset and sunrise. I want each piece to feel playful, but also desirable as an object – to stand on its own.”
Meanwhile in the Tod’s camp, the luxury Italian fashion house revealed a slew of high-quality materials and ’90s-inspired minimalist styles for both men and women. Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi staged his epic collection viewing at the Pirelli Hangar Bicocca on the outskirts of Milan, with none other than Carla Bruni opening the show in an industrial beige suit layered with a long overcoat.
Tod’s are supreme leaders in the fine art of tailoring, and here in Milan guests were treated to a swathe of fluid tailoring styles, predominantly in block colours, that highlight the expertise of the Italian fashion house – and the relevance its styles pertain to both men and women.
Of course, the closing of the show was just as spectacular as its opening; former supermodel Naomi Campbell, the ’90s power model, strutted down the runway in effortless style, wearing a beige trench coat paired with matching pants, sandals, and an oversized tote bag.
It was one of those buzzy fashion week moments that you had to witness to really believe what was happening.
Over at BOSS, the German fashion house brought a healthy taste of competition to Milan, Italy with a collection dedicated to the modern power suit. Think bold, relaxed, slouchy monochromatic suiting in a sea of blacks, greys and charcoal. Long, Bruce Wayne-esque overcoats, oversized mock necks and woollen bomber jackets.
Of course, there was the sight of neutral tones, which BOSS has adopted in past seasons exceptionally well. The inclusive runway was met with a star-studded cast that included Naomi Campbell, Future and more.
The SS23 collection exemplifies the brand’s vision to redefine what it means to “Be Your Own BOSS”; a catchphrase which is evidently highlighted through the core silhouette of this year’s collection: the power suit.
“Our archive is the beating heart of BOSS and the brand’s legacy. We were inspired by some iconic BOSS campaign images from the 90s to explore our power suits from decades past, and to ask ourselves: how can we capture the empowering mood of these pieces for a new generation,” says BOSS creative director, Marco Falcioni.
“We were drawn towards the idea of soft power this season. Suiting that is less of an inflexible shield around the wearer, and more an expression of individuality, freedom, and self-expression. This collection is all about dressing like a BOSS, whatever that means for you.”