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A Travis Scott Cactus Jack x Audemars Piguet collab? New Franck Muller? And Breitling buying and reviving cult watch brand Universal Genève right before Christmas? As we get closer to the end of 2023, when most of us are winding down, the world of watches is actually picking up pace with the biggest players saving some of the best launches for last.
Travis Scott Cactus Jack + Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet has just delivered the chaser to the shot that was their 1017 Alyx 9SM x Matthew Williams collab: a new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked limited edition in partnership with Travis Scott and his record label Cactus Jack.
The 41mm watch’s striking chocolate colour is the result of a complex and precise process. Craftsmen at Audemars Piguet start with yttrium-stabilised Zirconium Oxide powder, which is sintered at temperatures exceeding 1000°C to achieve this unique hue. Each piece is then meticulously hand-polished and brushed, showcasing the brand’s commitment to excellence.
The limited edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked watch flaunts white gold hexagonal screws and a crystal-clear sapphire dial that offers a peek into the Calibre 5135 movement—a marvel of engineering. This movement isn’t just functional; it’s a visual feast, blending rhodium and pink-gold tones, and complemented by hands and markers in gold with brown PVD coating, filled with a special white luminescent material. This luminescence takes on a magical blue glow in the dark, while the distinctive red arrow-shaped hand ensures clarity in daylight. Travis Scott gives the timepiece a shoutout on his track “Meltdown” where he calls it his Chocolate AP.
This isn’t the first time the brand has teamed up with a hiphop icon. Back in 2005, the Swiss watchmaker delivered a Royal Oak Offshore in collaboration with Jay-Z.
Franck Muller Launches A New Vanguard Slim Skeleton
Franck Muller favourite, the Vanguard Slim Skeleton, debuts a new case size, the V 37, designed to enhance wearability for both men and women. With a slim 9.1 mm profile, the watch is available in both V 41 and V 37 sizes, offering a sleeker alternative to the classic Vanguard’s larger design while retaining its dynamic three-dimensional shape.
This model boasts an automatic winding system and a 38-hour power reserve. Despite its slender form, it doesn’t compromise on the Vanguard’s bold, sporty aesthetics. The side insert seamlessly complements the curved case, emphasising its streamlined contours.
To accommodate the slim case, Franck Muller’s watchmakers reimagined the in-house movement’s skeleton. This unique movement, specifically designed for the Vanguard Slim Skeleton, showcases the intricate internal architecture and the exquisite craftsmanship of the brand. Each component is meticulously cut, open-worked, hand-polished, and refined, offering a glimpse into the artistry of Franck Muller’s master artisans.
Breitling Buys Universal Genève
Breitling have acquired long-defunct watchbrand Universal Genève, a favourite among collectors for its unique blend of affordability and a historical link with luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe. This Swiss brand, dating back to 1884, has been a hidden gem, especially noted for its elegant precision dress watches.
Among its standout creations is the Cabriolet, a pioneering reversible watch launched in 1927, ahead of the renowned Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. The brand’s journey through the decades is marked by significant milestones: from Hermès distributing their watches in France in the 1930s to the launch of the acclaimed Compax chronographs in the 1940s. Their partnership with Patek Philippe during this time greatly elevated Universal Genève’s status in the luxury watch market.
The brand’s legacy includes iconic designs like the Polerouter by Gérald Genta in the 1950s and chronographs worn by celebrities like Eric Clapton and Nina Rindt.
Breitling’s CEO, Georges Kern, acknowledges the importance of this acquisition, stating, “We’re excited but fully aware of the profound heritage we’re set to uphold.” Breitling plans to develop Universal Genève with a dedicated team, ensuring that this storied brand continues to thrive under their careful stewardship. This move is more than just an expansion for Breitling; it’s an embrace of a rich watchmaking legacy.
