Everything
Since 2016 when he was announced as artistic director for Italian menswear house ZEGNA, Alessandro Sartori has been rebuilding the codes of menswear from the ground up. Although rebuild is perhaps too simple in its meaning.
Reconstruct? Or resculpt, maybe? Akin to the way Michelangelo famously pulled forth the form of David from a slab of pre-worked marble in 1501, Sartori’s vision for a method of dressing works with the familiar trappings that make up menswear, just chipped away of its excesses. This, he has explained, is done by stripping it back to a simple quaternity of tops, bottoms, underpinnings and accessories.
Suits are now separates that can be integrated. Tailoring is now spoken of in the same instances as the fluidity of athletic fits. Sartori has been reassembling the jigsaw of men’s clothing in a way that makes the art of dressing less of a daily puzzle and a simple matter of layering.
The latest accessory, the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN, a new incarnation of the Triple Stitch that was launched in 2019 and a signature motif of the blended, elevated manner that Sartori saw modern men dressing. It marks a new chapter in ZEGNA’s storied journey, seamlessly marrying the brand’s heritage with forward-thinking design.
The inception of the Triple Stitch SecondSkin shoe was a moment of serendipitous creativity, born from the house’s idea to repurpose glove leather for footwear. This pivot not only demonstrated ZEGNA’s inventive spirit but also resulted in a shoe that boasts an unparalleled fit—akin to the snug embrace of a well-crafted glove.
Crafted in Italy by skilled artisans, SECONDSKIN melds premium New Zealand calf leather with sheep-based tanning methods, creating an incredibly soft and lightweight material. This material is special because it keeps its shape well, doesn’t easily wrinkle, and maintains its luxurious feel and smoothness as time goes by. Thanks to SECONDSKIN ability to adapt to the wearer’s shape more with each use, it’s perfect for making ZEGNA’s famous Triple Stitch Shoes and high-end leisurewear, ensuring a fit that feels custom-made for every individual.
At the epicentre of the shoe’s construction is master shoemaker Luisa Roby, whose roots are deeply entwined with Italy’s rich shoemaking legacy. Growing up in the shoemaking province of Rovigo, she was drawn to the craft’s rhythmic energy from an early age and ascent from an eager apprentice to a luminary at ZEGNA encapsulates a life devoted to refining the art of shoemaking – a dedication that can be seen in the finished product of the SECONDSKIN. Roby describes her journey with a sense of reverence for the craft, “Being immersed in the frenetic energy of shoemaking from my youth fueled my curiosity and ultimately shaped my path in this venerable art.”
Reflecting on the essence of the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN, Roby notes the intricate balance of aesthetics and functionality – two pillars of the ZEGNA brand – that defines its construction. “We deconstructed the iconic Triple Stitch style to its very core, reimagining it with a Strobel construction, a refined lining, and a reengineered toe counter. This meticulous process was vital to endow the shoe with its signature lightweight and snug fit,” she explains.
For the technical fans, the concept of the Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN can be broken down to an equation of numbers and precision: 0.8mm—the thickness of the SECONDSKIN leather, 68—the number of components in each shoe, 13—the artisans whose hands craft each pair, and 12—the months required to master the art of ZEGNA shoemaking.
In a world increasingly leaning towards sustainable and ethical practices, Roby highlights the evolving landscape of leather tanning and its impact on her work. “The tanneries’ shift towards more eco-conscious processes not only challenges us but also enriches our craft with new textures and possibilities,” she observes. This adaptability is a cornerstone of ZEGNA’s own investment into sustainability, blending tradition with innovation to meet the contemporary ethos.
Roby’s insights also reveal the intricate relationship between craftsmanship and technology in shoemaking, underscoring the importance of a continuous quest for materials that push the boundaries of quality and performance. “Our work is a testament to the fusion of age-old skills with modern technological advances, ensuring that each pair of shoes not only meets but exceeds the expectations of our discerning customers,” she states.
In many ways, Sartori is doing more than just creating clothes or shoes. He’s a preservationist, ensuring the longevity and advancement of artisanal skills that are the backbone of the garment industry. Sartori’s vision of restructuring the art tailoring into a modern, malleable practice that is applied to all of menswear is part of this way of moving the industry forward while paying homage to its heritage.
The Triple Stitch SECONDSKIN encapsulates ZEGNA’s dedication to preserving the glove leather’s inherent beauty and characteristics, while also ensuring unmatched comfort and elegance. It’s a piece that transcends the ordinary, offering a multitude of customisation options that cater to the sophisticated palette of ZEGNA’s clientele.
