If you’ve ever needed the motivation to make a somewhat semi-permanent move to the perennially polar climates of Iceland and the nearby islands, perhaps the Fendi Men’s Fall Winter 2023 collection might be the kick you need.
Cocooning capes, swathes of scarves, luxe leather pieces and shearling that sheathes the form – creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi makes the idea of facing bracing cold weather something to actually look forward to. In an act of contradiction, this was done via by ensuring that the collection retained a light touch despite the layering and cozy thickness of the pieces.
One thing that has become apparent at Fendi in recent collections has been a determination to make the experience of wearing clothing something fun. Formality can still be achieved via tailored details so sharp they could cut or the luxe mixture of materials.
But woven throughout, a delightful sense of playfulness.
Such as a shearling pilots jacket spray painted to look like worn leather, a draping knit that reaches almost floor length along with fringed coats. Keeping that light touch were sheer cashmere pieces layered with equally lightweight scarves or the mullet-like cuts of knit sweaters plus ponchos a-plenty.
Playfulness in next phase of cut-away that Silvia deems necessary in menswear – the midriff is out and the one-shoulder shirt is in. A reason to rejoin the gym and tone up the anterior deltoids.
Popping up throughout the collection, the off-shoulder detailing added a loucheness straight out of a ’70s disco or dancehall. Yes sir, we can boogie if you play a certain song indeed. It was a detail that gave some extra brevity to the juxtapositions that Silvia was exploring with the collection. Even the most familiarly formal – a tailored shirt – can be warped into something that breaks convention.