Italian brand TOD’s decision in 2014 to become a fully-fleshed out maison offering sartorial solutions along with their iconic footwear has started to find its feet. Pun intended.
TOD’s has already proven that they know how to deliver classic design – their Gommino should be placed in an art gallery or museum – but translating these codes into clothing isn’t an assumed skill.
So how do you translate the DNA of their classic moccasin inspired by a shoe to be worn while driving a sportscar into clothing for the modern man?
Take the feeling – that sense of adventure and the outdoors – and bring it to the fore with a ready-to-wear collection that lives up to the title.
TOD’s new Creative Director Walter Chiapponi is clearly not making any attempt to reinvent the wheel. He is, however, making it a smoother experience.
For their Fall 2022 collection, the focus was on a wardrobe that was suitably elegant, rounding out traditional masculine fixtures of parkas, peacoats and knitwear are reworked to include both sportif details and a ‘70s loucheness.
That rakish finesse that so marked the menswear of this decade is clearly an era Chiapponi finds much pleasure in exploring – from the three-quarter shearling coats and colour palette that looks like expose on the colour brown.
Will bell-bottoms for men return? At TOD’s they are. Slimmer than their ancestors, there’s hope yet for a trouser cut so firmly associated with a point in time.
The shirt jacket – that liminal piece of menswear that unites the lightness of shirt with the layered oversizing of a jacket – is given a new identity. One that’s more elevated, featuring leather patches stamped with the TOD’s logo and now suggested as an alternative to more traditional formal attire.
Where Chiapponi hits his stride is in the fabrications.
Fur-effect fabrics on bombers and pea coats are achieved by a new wool weaving technique, generating a richness of texture to the familiar items.
Reverse embroidery on knitwear continues this playing with tactility, contrasting to the ruggedness of the collection.
The Gommino doesn’t escape Chiapponi’s sharp eye for detail either. The cornerstone footwear of the TOD’s aesthetic has been slightly updated with a more modern edge. Dubbed the Winter Gommino and made with an unbleached suede, it features more prominent rubber spheres along the base.