They may be known as one of the most respected grand couturiers, but another area that luxury brand Christian Dior remains master of is the art of tailoring, a craft that lays at the heart of Dior creations. From tuxedos to trousers, jackets and suiting, this branch of the Dior clothing offering continues to play on the same key elements of perfection and precision that marks the couture line and bringing them into the more familiar codes of menswear for their new Summer 2022 collection.
Under the hand of Kim Jones, this cornerstone of the French maison has undergone a renewed focus that blends Jones’ innovative vision for menswear with a silhouettes that build upon the suit’s traditional architecture. While retaining the structure that is at the heart of tailoring’s elegance, the final form has been adapted to become more fluid, bringing it into line with contemporary lifestyles.
An example of how Jones has combined the DNA of Dior elegance with modern tailoring has been the Tailleur Oblique. This interpretation of a classic double-breasted jacket transforms the traditional buttoned front into a more streamlined, minimal affair. Fastened with one button on the far right, the jacket wraps around the waist to effectively hug the body. A nod to the Christian Dior archives, the Oblique creations from the 1950s, it highlights the innate forward-thinking that the maison has brought to their clothing from the beginning: what was pioneering then remains just as fresh and innovative today.
In today’s tailoring, what lays below the surface counts for just as much as what we see: for the first time Jones has introduced half-lined jacketing for a lighter, versatile layer that lends itself to perfectly to more casual scenarios. It also introduces a single-breasted style cut on the diagonal, a reference to the iconic Oblique piece.
Of course, few creations surpass the timelessness of Dior’s single-breasted suit. This mainstay of casual sophistication is a benchmark for Dior’s integration of tailoring into everyday style. Now lined with a CD monogram in jacquard, the cut is polished yet easily adapted for personalised expression.
The Summer 2022 collection also brings new colourways to the core Dior grey, including Prince of Wales chiné check with stripes in pale or navy blue – a nod to the styles worn by Christian Dior himself and the masculine British fabrics that were used in the haute couture. These details are a continuation of Jones’ focus on weaving the heritage of the brand into new formations.
It also times with the rerelease of the CD Diamond toile print, first made famous by Marc Bohan during his tenure at Dior in the ’70s. Hand-drawn before being transformed into a silkscreen print on cotton toile the monogram lends a modern yet referential detail to leather goods. Cut to measure to fit the Dior Saddle bag, a briefcase and backpack, it’s another facet of maison’s heritage that Jones has revitalised for a new generation.